Question
Most recently had a lawn problem
I assume due to grubs which attracts skunks and racoons. I
applied a grub remover by yet
to see any results.  I get conflicting info on when to
apply Grub X. Secondly, ground
hogs like to take refuge under
my outdoor storage shed and I
have also seen a raccoon and a skunk go into hole.  Neighbor
made an attempt to trap ground
hog a couple years ago to no avail.
I recently purchased some "dried
blood" also referred to as "bone
blood" and sprinkled it along
fence line as a friend did this
some years back which kept rodents
out of his pool.  Short of trapping
is there any other method?  I have
trapped chipmunks and relocated them to our state land, but have
been told this is illegal. The only other option I would have is to
kill them after I trap them which
I really don't think is right.
I was going to purchase coyote
urine, but it is quite expensive
and would like your opinion before
I do same.  Thank you.

Answer
As for the grub situation, skunks and raccoons may also be eating worms. You should also know that for skunks it isn't unusual for them to continuing grubbing a lawn up to two weeks after grub control was put down. That is assuming the grub control was used appropriately and is effective.


Woodchucks/groundhogs

Trapping woodchucks is the easiest way to control their populations when dealing with domiciled damage, ie. They are living on your property. This is especially true before the spring comes and the resultant young. Be sure to follow all your state laws. You will need a 10x12x32 inch cage trap single door. This is an excellent sized trap. I also have a booklet on woodchuck trapping. You can learn about it at http://wildlifedamage.unl.edu   Be sure to follow all state wildlife laws before starting any animal damage control program.

You know the woodchucks are gone, with reasonable assurance, by corking  the hole with a wad of newspaper. If the newspaper isn't disturbed for 4-5 days in good weather you know you can fill it in totally. You will need longer times in colder or bad weather. Remember, woodchucks hibernate between November to February.

Relocated animals have the problem of returning many times because people don't relocate them far enough. Relocation also is illegal in some states and it is also not as humane as people might think.
If you want to learn how to harass them and hopefully they will go away, then keep refilling or blocking the hole EVERYDAY. It will probably take several weeks for them to move on. but they may move to an area you also don't like.

If the chuck is living under a deck or shed, you could try exclusion which relies on trench screening the structure and then putting a one way door over the opening. I generally don't recommend this technique for non-professionals as if something is done wrong, it can go very wrong.

There are no repellents that will always work to keep woodchucks away or many other animals for that matter. Free roaming animals only have to walk past the problem so they will never be of much use. Some research has been done using coyote urine (if memory serves) which found that its use reduced (not eliminated) damage to farm crops. But remember, urine is urine so it would need to be handled safely. We can sell you some if you want it. Repellents can stop and/or reduce chew damage but the repellents shouldn't be used on plants you intend to eat. Don't even bother with ultrasonics etc. There is no magic to this business. Trench screening to protect gardens and porches etc. is very effective.