You've moved into a 10-year-old home with a four-station sprinkler system. Everything worked fine until two days ago — station 3 started leaking from six heads, and the valve box has water running continuously. You've replaced all solenoids, but the zone still won't shut off. Now you've shut off the main irrigation supply to stop the waste.
Every irrigation valve has a flow control knob on top — usually the larger of two knobs. This regulates how far the diaphragm opens. If it's wide open, the valve may not close fully, especially with lower pressure.
Try this adjustment sequence:
Debris in the valve body can prevent the diaphragm from sealing. Shut off the water, disassemble the valve carefully (note the spring and diaphragm orientation), and flush out any sand, grit, or mineral buildup. Inspect the diaphragm for tears or warping — replace if damaged. Reassemble with waterproof wire connectors on the solenoid leads.
If adjusting and cleaning don't work, the valve body itself may be cracked or the seat eroded. At that point, replacing the entire valve is faster and more reliable than continued troubleshooting.
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