Question
QUESTION: Hello! I recently came to have possibly two phalaenopsis orchids from my local walmart. I saw them the 1st day they came in, but didn't get mine till 2 or 3 days later. From the beginning, it seemed the people at the store weren't watering them. They were very dry. The one I got was in a 4in pot, and it looked like there were 2. Both have 2 flower stems each, with 2 flowering total, and one with a unbloomed flower. I noticed when i got them that one had a lower littler leaf starting to turn yellow. Is this because of the dryness? When I got home, I was sure to soak the pot with water till it drained out the bottom. One leaf on the 2nd row up had seemed to have been bent wrong because it was soft where it connected to the base and eventually fell off the next day. On the other plant, it looks like a bottom littler leaf is/was turning yellow as well. I haven't repotted them yet because of their extremely tall flower stems, but the pot is kind of off balanced and I realized they were wrapped in sphagnum moss wich tends to retain water. I've moved them to a window where they recieve some morning sunlight and very little to no afternoon light. The other orchid I have is doing well there and putitng out a new leaf. My question is are the yellowing leaves on my plants common with a plant that is being moved to a new enviroment? Or was it just because of the dryness? Because of the moss, should I go ahead and risk repotting them?

ANSWER: Your observation about the care orchids get at big box stores is right on target. Whether Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, Target, etc there is seldom anyone on staff who knows about orchid plant care. Good move in growing them in an east window.  My advice will be "middle ground" advice.  Yes, they need repotting, but, that would disturb the root system and could shorten the bloom period.  Wait to repot until after the bloom period.  Then, cut the flower spike off just above the second or third joint in the flower spike (it might rebloom on this spike). In the interim, go lightly on the watering.  It is likely that the plants have some root rot (hence the yellowing leaves) so overwatering them is the last thing you want to do pending repotting. When you begin repotting, choose an orchid potting mix that is fir bark based and soak it well prior to use.  The fir bark based orchid potting mix provides for better air movement and drainage at the root level.  Be sure to use pots (preferably plastic) that have lots of drainage holes in the bottom. When you repot, rinse off the roots and remove any roots that are mushy or stringy.  Healthy orchid roots are firm and turn green when wet.  I'm here to help assure that you become an orchid grower, so feel free to ask further questions as you move forward with this new adventure.

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QUESTION: Thanks! Although, it looks like I'll only be able to save one of them. The one with leaves that have got knocked off has it's leaf center turning mushy. This is bad, right? IS there a chance it will be able to grow more leaves from beneath the moss?

ANSWER: Yes, the "leaf center turning mushy" is a sign of bacterial rot from water getting into the crown late in the day and the crown staying wet overnight.  As to whether it will survive and grow new leaves will depend upon whether or not the tissue deep in the crown that gives rise to new leaves has been injured. Try removing the moss and let things dry out.  Bacterial and fungal rot thrive in wet conditions and the moss has the potential for keeping moisture at the base of the plant. You could also buy a product called physan, prepare a solution according to directions, unpot the plant and soak it in that solution for 10 minutes,  Then, remove it from the physan solution and set it aside to thoroughly dry before repotting.

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QUESTION: Thank you. I will move the moss, but it looks at those this mushy problem was when I got the plant. Although what I see is white stuff on the blackened part. Is tis fungi? I left the fan on it for at least an hour yesterday after if found it, and today I moved it to a slightly sunner position closer to the window. The other orchid looks fine, but with the white stuff get on it, too? Will some peroxide or some alcohol on a cotton swab help it?

Answer
If it doesn't move, it is probably snow mold which doesn't damage the plant but is an indicator of excessive wetness. Treatment with peroxide might help but do it early in the day.  If the "white stuff" moves about then it is likely mealy bug.  Since you didn't mention movement, snow mold is the most likely candidate.