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Irrigation Brands and Installation


Question
Jim

Thanks for the response.  The contractor said no problem in putting in the Hunter heads, so we are good there.  Regarding the plumbing - The main water line is 1" coming in to the Meter, but then it looks to only be a 3/4" meter and regulator.  That also means the main supply line for the entire house is 3/4".  The supply lines going to both spigots are also 3/4". Not sure this helps, but I think my limiting factor is the meter and etc.  I am tempted to try and get the city to replace the meter with a 1" job, and run a full inch for the main line, with a 3/4 branch going to the irrigation.  Thoughts?
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Followup To

Question -
James

We are looking at putting an irigation system in at our 5 year old home.  We have recieved significant differences in some of the quotes that we have obtained. How strongly do you feel that I should insist on Hunter PGP Rotory heads (vs Rainbird 5000s)?  RainBird 1800s good for spray heads?  And should I be concened about Hardie (Irritrol?) 2400 valves?   Also, how impotant is it to tap into the water supply as close as possible to the water meter?  One contractor wants to tap over by the exisitng spigot, but I am considering have a seperate 1" pipe run for the irrigation.  We have about a third of an acre in the Midwest (MN).

Thanks!

Answer -
Steve,
 Ok, The Rainbird 5000 is a less expensive head than the PGP. I would say the PGP is way better. 1800's are the best spray heads. Because of the nozzle selection and performance compared to others.
Now if one guy want to tap into a spigot which by that I guess you mean hose bib or something already coming out of the house, unless it is a very large pipe going to the hose bib and usually it's 1/2 inch, that aint going to work. Ask these guys this. What is your water pressure and what is the flow rate going to be at your point of connection. (where they are going to tap into your line). If they don't know are or can't tell you, then don't let them touch anything. Call somebody else. You have 1/3 Acre and you want to water it as quickly as you can. You don't want 18 zones with 2 heads on a zone because it will be running like6-8 hours straght.

    let me know, Jim,

Answer
Steve,

  I really didn't answer your first question concernig the Hardie/Irritrol 2400 valves. And they are outstanding. Basicilly the same design for 20 years and that's a proven track record and that is what you are looking for. I actually think Toro makes them now and it's possible for Toro to screw up anything, but I've used the new one and had no problems and never had in the past.
Now to the new business of the plumbing The contractor can tap into he supply in the basement before the pressure reducer and give you enough water I would think. It really should be the contractor job to figure out how much water  you need and how he can get it. if the basement is all finished off and tapping in down there is too hard, they might want to dig it up outside instead at the meter. i would say that tapping off the existing spigot may be easier, but that is probably after the pressure reducer and won't give you maximum water. The fact that you have a reducer is a good sign that you have more than enough water coming in the house and it is adjusted for the mixing valves on the dishwasher, washer, etc..

I would say that running the separate 1" line may not be needed. The water co. should be able to give you your water pressure on the phone, maybe. and one way to get flow is a simple 5 gallon bucket filled off the hose bib. If it fills up the bucket in 60 seconds then you have only 5 gallons a minute and a problem. if it fills it up in 20 seconds then you've got 15 GPM and that's a little low but workable  and so on. I've got a lot of queations tonight and if you have anything else let me know tomorrow. Jim

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