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Maple Tree Bark Split


Question

Split Tree Trunk
We have a mature Silver Maple tree and this spring we noticed a vertical split in the bark on the main truk.  The split is approximately 3 feet long and about 1.5" wide.  We live in the meto Detroit northern suburbs. The wood on the trunk is exposed, see attached file.  What can I do to fix this?   Will we loose the tree

Answer
Looks like either sun scale or frost crack. Neither will kill the tree.

Cracks and splits in tree trunks are fairly common and may occur for various reasons, but are usually not a significant threat to the tree. Typically, there's not much you can do about them once they occur.

One of the most common reasons for cracks and splits on tree trunks is frost cracking. Frost cracks occur during cold winter weather. The inner and outer wood in a tree's trunk expands and contract at different rates when temperatures change. When winter temperatures plummet below zero, especially after a sunny day when the tree's trunk has been warmed by the sun's rays, the different expansion rates between the inner and outer wood can cause such a strain in the trunk that a crack develops. Frost cracks occur suddenly, can be several feet long, and are often accompanied by a loud, rifle-shot sound. Frost cracks at a point where the trunk was physically injured in the past.

Maples and sycamores are very prone to frost cracks. Apples, ornamental crabapples, ash, beech, horse chestnut, and tulip trees are also susceptible. Isolated trees are more subject to frost cracks than trees in groups or in forest settings. Trees growing on poorly drained soils are particularly prone to frost cracks.

Frost cracks often close during summer, only to re-open in succeeding winters. They do not seriously damage trees, although they do provide openings where certain disease organisms may enter the tree, particularly if the tree is in a weakened condition. Frost cracks are difficult to prevent. Wrapping the trunks with tree wrap paper in fall helps, but is inconvenient to do year after year. Apple growers sometimes white-wash the trunks of apple trees to prevent frost cracks and other winter injury problems, but this is unattractive in landscape settings. The best way to prevent frost cracks is to prevent any injuries to the trunk throughout the tree's life. A professional arborist can bolt frost cracks shut with a technique called lip bolting. Most people simply remove loose bark hanging along the edges of the crack. You should not paint frost cracks or other wounds with tree wound dressing. These materials can trap moisture, causing decay in the trunk.

Sunscald is another form of winter injury that can cause cracks and splits. Sunscald occurs when cells in the living tissue beneath the bark thaw out on sunny days. This occurs mainly on the south or west side of trunks and branches. These cells rupture when they re-freeze at night. The tree is injured when enough cells in a given area rupture. You'll notice the injury the following spring as a discolored, sunken area. Fungus infections often invade trees via sunscald injuries. Young, thin-barked trees are most susceptible to sunscald injury. These include maple, honey locust, linden, and mountain ash. Heavy pruning on neglected trees exposes sections of bark that have been protected from the sun's direct rays for years, predisposing them to sunscald injury.

You can reduce or eliminate sunscald injury on young trees by wrapping the trunks each fall with tree wrap paper. Do this every year until the bark begins to roughen. This may take only a few years on some trees, but more years on others. Prune trees that haven't been pruned for years in stages, not all at once. This will help prevent sunscald.

I would spray the area with an insecticide called Merit to prevent borers from entering the trunk. And fertilize the tree with 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. This will increase the health of the tree and allow the tree to better stave off any insect or fungi.
In general I would not be too concerned about the crack except for borer prevention.

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