Question
I have been having great difficulty growing thyme and parsley indoors. The only window I have for this purpose faces south-southwest. My outdoor herb garden is right in front of this window and the plants do well. I live in Philadelphia, Pa. What kind of potting soil should I be using, how often to water? I have recently installed "daylight" lamps, but that has only produced a slight improvement.

Answer
Ernest:
Both plants are hard to start indoors at this time of season. It is better to start outdoors. The location is good. Once the plants sre up you can bring indoors. The thyme probably won't make it. It is a hardy plant and must have the cold waether to return next year. More tips below:

Herb Garden-Indoor
Herb cultivars grown 99% chemical-free since 1981   

[email protected]     

There is nothing so enjoyable in the late fall and winter months to an herb gardener than to have herbs grown indoors. You can make a fairly nice choice for inside with the right conditions for growing throughout the winter.  Indoor herbs depend on you to give them TLC. The soil, light, air, temperature, pest control, fertilizers and moisture.

CONTAINERS

I like those 10-inch deep containers that they finally start putting out. Those 6-inch deep planters only work you to death by re-potting the herbs when pot becomes full by mid-summer.  Most gardeners don't pay any attention to them until they start to loose color from lack of soil for the roots and food that another hungry herb has gobbled up first.                                                                                  

The 10-inch will give you plenty of space even when you plant it in the late fall to bring in. Start at Wal-Mart to buy these. Don't wait until the late summer, because they move out the garden supplies. Start looking for their summer clearance sales and still that might be too late. Best to buy early.

SOIL

Use (1) part sterile potting soil and (2) parts good garden top soil. You can start experimenting later with other soil mixes indoors when you get familiar with the types of potting soils.  Some are really bad for herbs, especially indoors. Use a plastic waste basket size container to mix your soil. Use a 6-inch pot as your soil measurer to fill your planter. Add (1) tablespoon  each of kelp meal, greensand, bone meal and rock phosphate.

FERTILIZERS

Feed with fish/seaweed liquid fertilizer every 3-1/2 weeks. If soil is still moist at this time, wait for it to dry out a little more.  Less fertilizing is needed in the late winter. Try to save a bottle of this for your indoor garden. A pint is plenty.  

LIGHTING                                                                                           

Herbs need at least (5) hours of direct sunlight a day. Rest of the light can be fluorescent giving a total of 14 to 16 hours a day.  Place in a south, southwest,  southeast or east window. Turn the plants every 3-4 days to receive even light. Fluorescent lights may be used with a timer. Hang lights 4 to 6 inches above the plants.

The light tubes may be 2-tube shop lights with (1) cool-white and (1) warm white. I have also heard using (2) cool white is better. You be the judge. Remember not to leave lights on all the time. The plants will start to turn yellow, look weak and die.

AIR CIRCULATION

Herbs are very sensitive to stagnant and dry air. Keep space between each plant. If your herbs are not in a sunny, cool porch, you may need to provide the fresh air by opening a window in another area of the house. Do not open window directly on the plants. The sudden cold air will affect them. A ceiling fan that is on most of the day will do or a small oscillating fan set on low and aimed toward the floor or ceiling.

HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE

An average indoor temperature for herbs is 65 to 68 degrees. The hardier ones can take the mid-forties. For humidity, a humidifier can be used with a timer or a tray filled with gravel and water. Place pots on this, but do not allow the water to cover the gravel.

WATERING

This is tricky for indoor herbs. I use the finger test. Insert finger into soil about 1-inch. If it is dry, water slowly from top with lukewarm water until it runs from the bottom of the pot. Also look at the bottom drain holes for moisture. Water with an 8 oz. cup of water to each 6-inch deep pot to measure.  Under watered plant leaves wilt and lose their color, over watered plants may look healthy and then without a warning, fall over and die from root rot, especially rosemary, thyme, lavender. Good drainage is the key.

Keep a water container sitting around in the area of your plants. You want it to be room temperature and chlorine dissipated. Sitting around for 24 hours should do it. NEVER USE COLD TAP WATER.  It could shock the roots, allow disease to form or stunt the growth.




PESTS

Use the homemade sprays listed in the Journal. Spider mites can be found on Lemon Verbena, Catnip, Mints, Sage. When possible use soft distilled water when making spray solutions.  Hard water is said to diminish its effectiveness especially on the all soap solutions.

HARVESTING                                                                                   

Harvest the growing tips on the thyme, lavender, rosemary, savories, marjoram. The leafy herbs such as chervil, cilantro, parsley should have the outside and old leaves harvested first. Make sure you have more plants of your favorite since they don't produce much in the winter. Make sure there is plenty of space between each plant, no leaves touching each other.

HERBS TO GROW INDOORS

Cilantro, Basil ( Needs 16 hours of light ), varieties are Cuban, Genovese Compatto, Spicy Globe, Chives, Rosemary, Marjoram, Parsley, Winter Tarragon, Winter Savory, Thyme, Oregano, Culantro, Spanish Thyme, Aloe, Cardamom, Scented Geraniums, Tender Lavender, Tender Sage, Vick's Plant, Hot Peppers, Bay Leaf, Curry Plant, Eucalyptus, Ginger Plant, Jasmine, Lemon Grass, Myrtle, Sorrel, and others that may do well.

BRINGING OUTSIDE HERBS INSIDE

To bring in some of those herbs that have been growing outside, there are some rules to follow here also. These are basic, so don't carve this into stone:
?  Select the outside herbs that you want to bring in around early August.

?  Make rooted or water cuttings from your mother plants. Remember Mama and Daddy herb is not happy about coming indoors to produce  for you. They have given their best doing the summer and want to rest for next year or just die. So, they love to have their children taken inside to keep you filled with their flavor and scents.      :o)

?  ( SEE GROWING HERBS; FROM SEED, CUTTING & ROOT.....TOM DEBAGGIO )

?  For those in pots who can come in, you will first take the plant out of the pot. If you are going to use the same pot again, give it the bleach soak. Trim off 1/3 of the bottom and cut into the side roots until they are loose. Trim all broken stems, take off all dead leaves. Use a light soap spray on the plant just before bringing inside.

?  Rosemary has to be given certain attention than most of them. Once you have acclimated it to bring in, be sure it gets the front seat in that sunny location. Keep it sunny and cool. No heat vents or too much water. Take it out of the pot and check for moisture if you are not sure how much to give. This way you can check the root system too. Most Rosemary love to bloom in late winter to early spring.

?  When buying those Xmas Rosemary, give them the root check up. Most are already heavily rooted when you get them. Most people have lost them in about a month or so after they bring them home. Treat them like a new plant about to be planted, paying close attention to the root system, air and sunlight.

( SEE INDOOR SHEET FOR STEPS IN RE-POTTING.)

?  Move potted plants into indirect outdoor light and keep there until just before the hard frost arrive or mid 30's. Bring indoors and give the east, south, southeast, or southwest location.

HARVESTING, DRYING AND STORAGE:

Once you use fresh herbs in certain recipes, you don't want to use dry herbs again. Freezing is a good way to preserve the fresh flavor for winter use. Wash, shake dry and freeze in freezer bags. No blanching or defrosting before use, since they can be chopped while still frozen.

Chives should be cut into lengths that you like, then laid on a cookie sheet be sure they are dry so they don't stick together . Place cookie sheet with chives on them into freezer for about an hour.  Place into freezer bags and keep in freezer until ready to use.    

Take out and put certain amounts into separate freezer bags. For your favorite tea herb, take leaves and place in a blender with water and blend until liquefied. Strain and pour into ice cube trays. Add a full leaf to each cube if you like.
Place in freezer bags and enjoy a spearmint, peppermint, etc ice or hot drink in the winter. Check your other herb books for more or better ideas. Too much basil, make basil cubes.                                                

Puree leaves and pour into ice cube tray. Separate into freezer bags. Basil may need blanching before freezing. Do a small batch early to find out if it will turn black without blanching. To blanch: place leaves in a strainer and pour boiling hot water over them ( 1 ) time. Then lay on paper towels and let them cool in the air before freezing.

The most common method of preserving herbs is drying. Drying concentrates and preserves the flavoring oils contained in the plant. The oils reach a peak at certain stages in the plant's development, proper timing of harvest will ensure a good quality product.

Leaves are best gathered just before or during the early stages of flowering. Seeds are best when they ripen to a dark color. Roots are best dug after the first fall frosts. By this time the plant has transported much of its food from the leaves to the roots.

When gathering leaves and seeds the best time of the day is the early morning after the dew has evaporated. Always leave at least 2 pairs leaves at the base of each stem for new growth.  Pruning your plants with my schedule  can get you more harvests from your plants.                     

Look for more on your basils, greek oregano, cuban oregano, marjoram, stevia, mints, chives, german camomile, arugula, cilantro, parsley, patchouli, sages, santolina, summer savory, sorrel, tansy, tarragon, broadleaf spanish thyme, thymes, lemon verbena, and many more. Make sure the leaves are cleaned of dust and soil. Strip large-leaved herbs from the stems to promote faster and thorough drying.

Spread herbs  ( leaves, seeds and chopped roots separately on a screen or netting in a dark ventilated area. When completely dried, store in dark, airtight containers in a cool location. If drying is not thorough, herbs could lose color, taste and become moldy. You may want to be sure by placing herbs in oven at its lowest temperature settings for 10 to 20 minutes. Leave door ajar to provide air circulation.

Don't grind leaves until just before using, because flavor dissipates less readily from whole leaves.  Herbs like parsley, cilantro and rosemary dry well in the refrigerator. Place an unwashed bunch in a paper bag. Close the bag and leave in the refrigerator for about a month. The bunch will be green, dry and aromatic. Never store your herbs above or near the stove, the heat will dissipate the flavors.


FOR MORE ON FREEZING, DRYING AND STORING, SEE THESE RESOURCES:

RODALE'S ILLUSTRATED ENCYLOPEDIA OF HERBS
HERB COMPANION MAGAZINES AND COOK BOOKS