Question
We have a cottage on a lake in Northwestern Ontario (postal code P0X 1C0).  Our spring was very dry.  We do not go to the cottage every weekend.  We do not water the lawn, letting nature do its job.  We refrain from fertilizing due to the proximity of the lake.  We mowed the grass on May 21 for the first time this year, and when we went back again 3 weeks later, the grass itself had grown very little.  In fact it was dry and brown, likely due to the drought-like conditions.  However, the lawn was covered with tall shoots with seed heads.  My questions are:
1.  How many days does it take for this type of seed shoot to grow to a height of approximately 1 foot?
2.  Is it better to leave these seed heads to mature and drop their seeds rather than mow?
3.  If mowed, should the clippings be bagged and removed from the lawn?
4.  Would it be better for the lake and the environment if we decreased the area of grass mowed.
5.  What height would it be best to leave the grass at under these circumstances?
I would appreciate answers to these questions and advice on how to best manage our cottage lawn.  Thank you.   Trisha

Answer
You can let the grass go to seeds or mow them down. It really does not matter. Most seeds in seed grown lawns die anyway especially during periods of draught. There is no harm letting the lawn go to seed, however. If you are going to stay at the cabin and want to walk on the lawn, mowing down the seed heads is typically what you want to do.

Do not bag clippings. Clippings should be allowed to fall on the lawn and decompose (mulch). However, tall clippings (above a few inches) may matt and lay on top of the lawn and kill existing grass. Therefore, if the lawn is excessively long, you are better off mowing the lawn once and collect the clippings (for recycling or composting) and then mulch mow (let clippings fall on the lawn) the next few mowings while you stay at the cabin

Do not let excessive clippings get into the water (nitrate pollution). Clippings collected should be composted, or disposed of.

However, the lawn benefit tremendously from receiving the clippings (natural fertilizer) and provided the clippings are small enough to fall between the grass strands and make their way to the bottom of lawn, they will decompose and disappear. This is the ideal place for the clippings. Your lawn will stay very healthy this way.

If your mower has a mulching attachment, or has a mulching setting (typically means removing the clipping catcher and turning a lever, or placing a mulching attachment in place) then this is what you should use.

Generally, it is better to mow lawns frequently and in smaller steps (1-2" or 3-5 cms at a time) than infrequently and in large chunks. Always mow when the lawn is dry and preferably when the lawn is not draught stressed.

Mow grass 2.5-3.5" (7-9 cms) tall (meassured after a mowing). If your lawn is excessively tall, then mow it back to 5-6" (12-15 cms) first and then in a few days back to 3.5" (9 cms). Do not mow from 8" (20 cms) to 2" (5 cms) in one go or you can stress the lawn.

When lawns do not get enough water, a defence is to turn brown to conserve energy ("play dead"). When moisture and cooler temperatures return such as in the fall, the grass usually starts to grow again. Unless you can stay at the cabin and continue to water the lawn regularily, do not wake up the grass from the "draught dormancy". If you plan on keeping the grass growing actively for a few months, you can wake it up with regular watering (may take a few weeks to green up) but if you are in and out, then just leave the grass brown.

If you can, fertilize your lawn in early fall and again in late fall. This will ensure a healthy lawn going into winter and typically allow the lawn to do what it needs in summer (it builds resources in fall). Avoid heavy fertilization in spring and summer. When fertilizing your lawn, use regular lawn fertilizers preferably the slow release type and do not exceed dosing on the lable. It is best to apply when rain is anticipated.