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Covering new grass seed to preserve moisture


Question
Bought the Greenview product at Loew's.  Found it a bit tricky to figure out when I had applied 1/3 coverage.  I figured I had about 300 sq ft and I weighed the bag tonight--20 lbs (supposedly 30 lbs full).  Says will cover up to 600 sq ft per bag, so I may have been a little light.  I'm going to remeasure in the morning.  I guess better to be a little light in application than too heavy, especially since I intend to be faithful about watering twice a day.  I assume if it gets too heavy it can block the light.
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Followup To

Question -
Less a question than a follow up comment. Seeding this week.  Soil prep was already done, but will loosen it up a bit, pull up a few new volunteer weeds, add a bit more new  topsoil and drop the seed.
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Followup To

Question -
You mentioned that timing is crucial.  What are your thoughts on that?  I've heard that September is the best time for us on Lake Champlain.  I worry a bit about the time needed for blue grass to germinate (yes, the area is full sun).....so, I'm going to put the grass seed down this coming week--around August 23--or do you think I should wait until September?

As re peat moss, I'm a bit worried that it would be easy to get it too heavy.  Then, too, my wife says I need to moisten it before I spread it--sounds like a mess.  It would not be a big deal to return it for the pellets--must be the same product you mentioned.  The pellets are light green and about the size of a peanut or smaller.  Fairly heavy.  Break down from rain.

Oh yeah, the question.  What do you think about the timing?
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Followup To

Question -
Hi LIG:
I live in northern NYS, Lake Champlain area.  In a couple of weeks I will be planting grass in about 300 sq ft.  The soil is prepared and I will use Scotts SUNNY (50% KBG and 50% perennial rye).  I plan to rake the loosened soil, sow seed, rake lightly, step down into soil.  My question is with a material to cover the grass seed.  I shopped today for a fabric material, but found none.  A local Agway had both straw bales and an Agway product of little nuggets made for this purpose.  The Agway agent recommended peat moss over the straw or nuggets.  I bought the peat moss (and can certainly still exchange it for straw or the nuggets.  But how thin should the peat moss be put down? whatis the best way to distribute it, and should I put it down wet or dry?  Is this a "forgiving" process, or should I stress out over whether I'm putting down the peat moss too thickly/thinly?  

Rick
(I am sending a weed question separately)

Answer -
So Rick - Here we are again!  Question 2.  I can answer this for you.  I'll try to be shorter than the other question.

Your KBG + Perennial Rye is going on full sun real estate?  Because this sun-guzzling combination has no tolerance whatsoever for shade.

I have mixed feelings about Peat Moss as a mulch.  The Vermont Agriculture Dept (www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/landsmaint/jul93pr4.html) summarizes mulch options I think very clearly and their description of Peat pro's and cons are exactly what I would say.  For grass, I have been using a product I picked up in Home Depot and I will have to check outside tomorrow.  I am very happy with it and it was easy to work with, reasonably priced, and did not present the moisture problems (or the dust and wind problems) mentioned by Vermont's website.  Peatmoss has its place.  As a top dressing, though, I think there are better choices.

How much better?

I have a feeling that the con's are not really worth going to the trouble to return all that peat moss.

Just watch the moisture levels.  Distribute the peat moss thin enough that it doesn't blow away, but not too deep that it dries out and seals off rain from the grass seedlings.  You have to water daily anyway until the grass sprouts.

That stuff I've been using, mainly to reseed areas that are killed off when the painter comes over and leaves large pieces of equipment on my beautiful lawn thereby killing the grass underneath, things like that, this stuff is little green pellets that may be what the Agway people were evaluating for you.

You just want the seed to be nice and moist.  If you have compacted soil underneath... well, you know what I think about that.

You're putting down grass.  It's a process.  The mulch is not the critical part here.  The timing - that's critical, you don't want to wait too long.  The watering - that's critical.  Fertilize 3 weeks after the grass sprouts.  Etc.  We'll talk more later.  Go ahead, use the Peat moss.  For the record I'll get back to you about this large container of green pellets that I find are such a breeze to use.  But you have the Peat Moss.  See what you think.  Work with out.  Let me know.  I'd like to hear your opinion.

Answer -
I have to agree with you, Rick, your region is approaching peak grass growing season.  You don't want to put seed down too late - the grass has to be mature enough to take advantage of the mild temperatures and the crispier night temps...  BUT the soil has to be great, too.  Much better to prepare the soil and sow on great soil than to sow and then try to fix the soil after your grass is down.

I have used up those pellets but they sound like the same thing, there was fertilizer that would slow-release and the pellets expand when moist to protect the grass.

You can't really pre-moisten peat moss before spreading it.  But it is hard to moisten even after you put it down.  Add to that the acidic tilt in the pH and you see why it's not my first choice for a mulch.

The Golf Course Management Assn. of America website (www.gcsaa.org/gcm/1999/nov99/11poa.html) tells turf managers: "Early-fall seeding gives more uniform germination."  In the case of Bluegrass, they point to one study: "Germination percentage exceeded 80 percent on day seven with day/night temperatures of 77/59 F." Sounds like Lake Champlain in August, don't it?

With colder days and nights, where days never reached above 50 degrees F and the frosty nights plunged to 32 degrees F, "Germination was delayed for about two weeks, and the final germination percentage never reached 70 percent."

So yes, you are in a much cooler zone than we have here - and I am glad you pointed that out.  It's time.



Answer -
Thanks for the update - weather looks perfect!  Good luck with your project, I think it will look really good when you're done.  Keep in touch.

Answer
Sounds like a plan, Rick.  Don't worry about perfection here - the timing (season, temperatures) and the watering and the grass, those are what count.  It's not like baking a cake, the precise measurement of the grass mulch - you just want it to grow.  I think you are on the right track.  Just be vigilant from now on.  Do everything on schedule and don't take shortcuts, don't go on a long vacation and leave some kid to maybe water the seed, etc.  Good luck - keep me posted.

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