Question
QUESTION: To whom it may concern
I came across your web site when looking for ideas as to what to do with my lawn.  I live in Whitewater, WI which is in the middle of southern Wisconsin.  
I have a new home which was seeded a few times when I bought it.  The lawn was patchy with grass and in many spots 50% or more weeds. I spent the summer preparing the lawn by picking rocks and getting out the creeping, large base weeds (no chemicals).  It is clear in working with the lawn I don't have the best top soil but planned to rebuild and replenish over time.
In mid August I planted certified grass seed from my local nursery for seed specific to my general area.  I also added a slow release organic fertilizer.  I gave the seed adequate coverage with some straw to keep in moisture and watered faithfully daily when not raining.  Within 5-7 days I saw germination.  The weeds were cut to less than 20% just in the prep work and such.  
I have continued to water faithfully still keeping it damp but not too wet.  In the last week, when I was expecting the last grass to come up(had germination date of 28 days) my grass has started to turn yellow.  Up until this time my grass has looked green and doubled.  Even the completely bare areas had taken and were looking great.  I have searched and searched to find the cause but am not sure what it is - possible iron deficiency???  The grass has no new growth coming in now and the blades of grass have yellow-orange spots on them. The blades are obviously suffering but are not dead.  There is no brown or tan and the entire blade is not yellow - just parts of it.  Each blade is a little different exactly how the yellowish areas are displayed.  Some have it on just on the tip, some in the middle and some both with areas of green in between. Do you have any idea what this could be?
Would appreciate any help at all
Dana

ANSWER: Dana:

You are observant and meticulous.  I assume that the lawn you planted was bluegrass and/or fescue.

First, the disease you describe appears to be rust.  If you wipe the grass leaves with a towel or tissue, does an orange color appear?

If rust, then aerate (when lawn is established), water in AM (as you describe) and fertilize with nitrogen (N).  When you begin mowing, be sure to remove the clippings until the rust disappears.

Second, I have always had trouble providing N for lawns and gardens with bagged organic fertilizer.  Unfortunately, chemical anaylsis does not allow the organic N source to act adequately for the best application.  Bagged organic fertilizers are low in effective nutrient distribution.  Either increase the amount applied or seek another source of N.

When I first installed lawns with organics in the 1970's, I found that poultry manure gave me the results I wanted, though it was imbalanced and distasteful to homeowners and neighbors.  Bagged Milorganite and others would not deliver according to analysis as would mineral fertilizers.

If you can find an organic source of potash (K), apply it liberally.

Concede that you may have to overseed the lawn again.  It is a small cost and a conventional practice.  You may wish to aerate at that time if you have not already done it.

I hope this helps.  Best wishes.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Tom
Thank you so much for getting back to me and for the compliments.  I am a new learner to lawn and plant care, my brother has taught me a great deal but this one stumped him.  
When I wiped the grass leaves with a towel, orange did appear.  Although the knowledge did not take the problem away, I still jumped for joy because something fit!  Thank you.

The grass I planted was a mix of 25% fescue, 25% ryegrass mix, and the remaining varieties of bluegrass.  I did use a bagged poultry manure in pellet form as my organic fertilizer.  It also had potash in it.  Do I need more or possibly another kind?   During application I applied liberally as it was also slow release.  
I think due to the disease no new grass is going to grow.  It is as established as it is going to be before winter.  The fertilizer and watering did make the grass that was put in by our builder in the spring take off so we do have a lawn now with just a few bald spots (even be it 搑usty?.  Should I go ahead and aerate now or wait for reseeding in the spring or aerate now and then?
I had been planning on 搑ebuilding?the soil this fall as well.  Can I still start to do that or not?  Any ideas and help with this?
Thank you so much.  Words can not express the gratitude I feel right now.  We have worked hard on getting the yard healthy.  I know it will be a road that never ends but I don抰 want the work I have put in already to be completely wasted.  
Thanks again
Dana


Answer
Dana:

You have a couple of paths to follow at this point.  I would say that they depend on how big the patches are.

If they are not large, wait until spring and let the lawn grow as much as it will before aerating.

If they are large and very bothersome, then go ahead aerate and sew again now.

It sounds as though you have applied enough fertilizer and the rest can wait until spring.

I would not worry about rust too much.  It does not seem to me to be a terrible fungus.  It may run its course or you may have to treat it.  By the time the symptoms show, the fungus has acted.  You can treat the areas now or wait to see what happens.

If I were going to build the soil and favor the grass, I would apply a high quality compost, thermophilically processed (above 131 deg. F) with good nutrients (1-2-1 thru 2-3-2.)  MN has some good commercial composters and some good city/county outfits.  3/8" is the right depth.  Maybe a late winter application would work to spread out the fertilizer load.

Just be careful not to pile too many nutrients on the lawn at once.  And sew seed whenever the notion comes to mind - within reasonable limits, of course.  Never hurts and seed seems to have good sense when to come up.

Best wishes.