Question
Background.  Orlando Fl, St Augustine Grass
Brown patches, dead areas of grass, weeds.  3/15/09 Put down Sunniland for chinch bugs and Spectracide within 2 weeks of each other. Also Scotts Bonus S weed n feed for St aug at same time   Hate sodding & have several questions.

Should i compost with Black Kow?  On website, sez for 100 sq ft use a hundred pounds which is  1 pound per sq ft.  I have 19000 sq ft of grass.  Can or should I mix it top soil or something else.  Cost would be about $1500 based on 50 pond bag costing abt $4.

Opinion on Milorganite?

Does sugar help the soil or is it wives tales?  i can find no scientific backup or Fl Extension backing on this yet i c many posts that advocate the use of about 1 pound per 300 sq ft

Does corn meal help with weeds?

Does baking soda kill fungus and crabgrass or another wives tale?

What grass seed could i overseed and put down that most closely resembles St augustine if i go that route

Don't like sodding but is it my only option. Read no St aug seed available except something called Raleigh St Aug but can't find it

Finally is there a guideline you can recommend for yearly maintain.

Thanks in Advance


Answer
You have asked many questions so I will start with the easier ones (for me) and work upward.
St. Augustine grass does not produce viable seed in commercial quantities so sodding or sprigging is the only way.
If you sow grass seed in St. Augustine, it will most likely be smothered out. Even if you do get a happy coexistence, weed control for seed propagated grasses is quite different from weed control in vegetatively propagated grasses like St. Augustine.
"Milorganite" is an excellent organic soil ameliorant that also has some nutrition (6% Nitrogen and 2% Phosphorus). It has a caution about heavy metals and food plants.
You seem to be at that fork in the road and wondering whether to go organic or synthetic.
There are many appealing organic programs and I have neither the qualification nor experience to advise for or against. This I do know. Transitioning to organic is a long term process and things will get worse before they get better. You are trying to convert the soil from a relatively inert mass to a biologically active medium which eventually will support plant and microbe life to the extent that there will be no more need for synthetic support. This requires perservance and an enquiring mind.
Synthetics are easier but they do require a more rigid approach. One has to be sure that a harmful insect is the cause of the visual symptom. Questions like "Is it necessary to control? What to use? At what stage of development of the harmful insect? At what rate? How to check that it has worked?" must all be answered.
In the final analysis, you will have to decide.