A Hardie controller with a dead LCD (even after battery replacement) that only stops watering when unplugged has a failed microprocessor. Zone 1 running continuously without power to the controller confirms a stuck valve—likely the solenoid or diaphragm.
Match zone count. Wiring transfers directly—label all wires first.
Identify valve brand/model (on body). Buy diaphragm + solenoid kit ($15–$25). Clean valve body thoroughly. Reassemble. Test manually before restoring controller power.
Possible cascade: valve solenoid shorted → sent voltage back into controller output → fried driver chip → controller died → valve stuck energized (if fail-closed) or debris held it open. Replacing both prevents recurrence.
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