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Sprinkler Solenoid Testing After Controller Voltage Confirmed—Ohmmeter Method

Previous test: 28V on all zones at controller. Assuming wiring good, how to check solenoids?

Solenoid Resistance Test

Multimeter → 200 Ohms
Disconnect EACH solenoid from controller wires
Measure: 20-60 Ohms = GOOD
<20 = SHORT (replace)
>60 = OPEN (replace)
Cost: ~$9 at Home Depot/Lowes

Follow-up: One Zone Still Missing

User found main valve (blue/white wires) — likely backflow preventer. Must open for other valves to work. Missing solenoid probably buried near main valve — dig carefully or trace wires.

Valve Operation Check

Can you open zones 2,3,4 from controller? If not and solenoids good → wiring issue. Main valve solenoid also critical.

Irrigation: Troubleshooting a Sprinkler Zone That Shows Active but Delivers No Water; Richdel 446PR Hybrid: Zone 2 Runs Continuously Even in Off Position; Toro Vision II: One Zone Shows 24V Constantly But Won't Water; Rain Bird ESP-LX "Fault 4" Code: Zone Skipped; Troubleshooting Old Hardie HR6100 Zone That Won't Auto-Shutoff; Rain Bird 9-Zone with Richdel Valves: Only Zone 6 Runs After Heavy Rain; Hardie Controller Flashes, Won't Run – 15 Years Old, Replace; Toro Controller Blows Fuse Intermittently – Locate Valves with Wire Tracer; Choosing a Sprinkler Valve for Low-Pressure Tank Drainage; SlimDial Timer: Zone Stays On After Off – Valve or Controller?

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