Question
QUESTION: Hello,

This year I have decided to fertilize the lawn myself.  Over the past three years, I have had a service do it and not satisfied with the results.  I had crabgrass, red thread, grubs, etc.

I bought the Scotts 4 step.  I bought 2 large bags for about 30-40,000 SF.  I first put lime, then the first step down, then watered in.  It greened up.  Then about 8 weeks later, I put Step 2 down.  Because I had red thread last year, I cut the watering down to every other day.  We did not have much rain.  Then some areas started to get brown.  But in the front of the house about 5-6', it's all green.  In the back of the house, for about 15-20, it's all green.  Out from there, it starts to get brownish.  In the middle of the brown, there are some specks of green.  Do you think I burned the lawn, or is it just lack of water and it will come back?  I used the settings on the Scotts bag on the spreader.  I did use a small amount at the end that was leftover and put more in the front.  That shouldn't make a hige difference?  Are a lot of people complaining this year about a brown lawn in the Northeast with the lack of rain?  Let me know.  The Step 3 is due to be applied in the next two weeks.  Should I aerate now and deep water?  I am looking for direction.  Thank you.

ANSWER: Paying a Lawn Service to create a Lawn with Crabgrass, Red Thread and Grubs I agree is a waste of money.  First, I need to know what kind of Grass you are growing and where it grows -- what state, zipcode, anything.  Scotts 4 Step has limitations.

That said, my hunch is that you followed the Scotts instructions carefully, although by not wanting to 'waste' any of the powder and re-applying more at the beginning worries me.  How does THAT Grass look today?

Given your conscientious tone, I suspect this is a Fungus -- more Red Thread or other affliction.  Reason being, you are VERY conscientious about watering your Grass PLUS you stress Grass with all these chemicals (which is why Lawn Services are always dealing with Fungus attacks on their customers' Lawns -- ever notice how people who don't bother with their Lawns NEVER seem to get Grass diseases?).

I'm also wondering how much Lime you applied.  Did your soil test tell you exactly how much to use?

Hold off on Step 3.

Please tell me more specifics re your Grass, Domenic.  Also, what's the Sun situation in relation to the Brown symptoms you described?  rsvp

ps - No drought stressed Grass in the Northeast -- plenty of rain.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for a response.  Well, on April 24, I put down 8 or 9 bags of lime over a 30-40K lawn.  I did not have a soil test.  I put down lime because they say "lime can't hurt."  The fertilizer company always put it down once a year.  On 4/24, I also put down the Step 1.

I have a Kentucky Blue Grass, Rye Grass and Fescue mix.  I am zip code 01568.

The grass where I applied more chemicals at the beginning is mixed.  Part is brown, with patches of green.  In the front of the house, there is 5-6' of all green.  The rest of the 60 or 70' to the street is some burned, some green.  It is all open.  No shade.  Sun rises in front of the house.

In the rear, the same thing.  About 15' from the back of the house is green.  The other 70' to the woods is mixed green and brown.  Sun sets in rear of the house.  On the side of the house, which there is no shade or woods, it is pretty brown.  Around the sprinkler heads, it's green for about 16" around the head.

There is no pattern.  It's all random.  It's not like I have stripes or anything.  I walked in long rows, carefully watching where the fertilizer was dropping so the next row was just touching when I started back the other way.

How come people who don't bother with their lawns never get diseases?  The soil does seem hard.  My next door neighbor was all green.  Two weeks ago, he got some burned areas, but they are starting to come back.  

I was watering every day for 12 minutes per zone.  Because of red thread last year, I changed about a month ago to 15 minutes every other day per zone.  Now I am going back to every day for 15 minutes.  

What is a good way to treat disease?  Do I apply the Grub-Ex?  I am starting to see some green in the rear which is mixed in to the brown areas.  Do you think it's a lack of water?  

I took some pictures on June 25, which was a week after the last fertilization.  I put down Step 2 on June 18.  It didn't look that bad.  Now, it's a month later and all this brown developed.  If I applied too much at the beginning in April, shouldn't I have seen the brown results in about a week?  

Also, even the parts that look healthy and green are not growing that fast.  It's been about two weeks and I have not cut.  Usually, you get growth and it gets really thick and you need to cut once a week.  That's not the case right now.  

I have a Sears Lawn Tractor that has 6 settings.  I am using number 5, which is the second to the highest.  I noticed that when I cut last, I saw some green on the right of the pass and the left was brown.  The blades were replaced at the end of last year.  Could the mower deck not be level?

If the problem is just heat and will get better in the fall, I would be thankful.  Let me know.  Thanks.

Answer
Upton, Massachusetts.  Some of the highest IQs in the workforce are in the Upton area, No?  You've had a cool summer, sir.

Let's look at some of these details.  Excellent job here that you've done.  We have much to work with.  A KBG/Rye/Fescue Cool Season blend.  At this time of year, many people with these Grasses irrigate like crazy to keep them awake.  Back off and they fade to Pale Green and Straw, metabolism slows down and they hibernate, and stay that way right through Summer.  Meantime, Weeds are bursting into growth as temperatures soar and the Sun broils down.  This is not the best of times for Cool Season Grass, my friend.

Fervent watering is asking for trouble, as you have learned.  It works to a point.  But sooner or later, the Grass just can't take it any more, and it's Siesta Time in Upton.

That's what I think is going on here.  I suspect there is also a trace (or more) of a Fungus(es) lurking down there just waiting for just the right temps and moisture.

I hate to do this, but we should go over some points of information.  Because I think someone should tell you these things.

Most important point:  The Scotts Company wants your money.

Sure, that sounds obvious.  But to deal with last year's Red Thread, lots of people in your shoes would diagnose, then bolt over to the garden center and buy a Scotts Fungicide.  They forget that the Scotts Company wants your money.  For them, that's really all that matters.  Not their Grass.  Not their house.  Not them.  Their money.  Period.  It's all about $$$$.

Remember that.

Just for fun, let's see what the Cornell University School of Agriculture says about Red Thread:

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/FactSheets/redthread/redthread.htm

Cornell Coop Extension tells us: 'Red Thread occurs in the Spring and Fall during humid periods when the air temperatures are between 16癈 and 24癈 (60癋 and 75癋).  The disease is especially severe on slow-growing Nitrogen-deficient turf.'

North Dakota State University Agriculture and University Extension devotes an entire page to 'Lawn Disease'.  What do the pro's say about Red Thread?

'Control with fungicides is not usually required for Red Thread. If soil Nitrogen levels are low, fertilizing the lawn may help it to recover more rapidly. Deep watering and avoiding frequent light waterings, especially in late afternoon, may help to reduce damage. Collect Grass clippings when the disease is active.'

Let's read that again.

'Control with fungicides is not usually required.'

Of course, Domenic, I guarantee you that Scott's has a magic powder they promise will kill this Fungus.  Scotts and a dozen other companies, scores of Lawn Services, and maybe even all of your own friends.  Me, I'm telling you that in 2007 we have a LOT of science behind us.  
You can read the whole speech at their website:

http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/landscap/pp950w.htm

Intelligent people never reach for the bag of chemicals when they have science.  But Scotts would not sell any Fungicide if everybody knew that.  So they spend MANY millions of $$$$$ giving you a solution that will help THEM.

Now, maybe you already knew that.  Maybe you figure out that simply by watering less, and a few other tricks of the trade, you could beat Red Thread.

But you have signed onto the Scotts 'Program'.  This is a very nice money making 'program' for Scotts.  Not so nice for your Lawn.  And it sort of ties in with why people who never work on their Lawns don't get Lawn Diseases.

Reason:  Stressed turf gets sick.

What stresses turf?

Fertilizer (those huge numbers on the bags say it all -- megadoses of Nitrogen, which force-feed the Grass and rev the engine into the red zone temporarily -- then CRASH).  Weed Killer (alters soil biochemistry and screws up the roots and the food flow -- plus it's bad for the Birds and the Bees).  Fungicide (beneficial Fungi are what keep BAD Fungus from making your Lawn sick).  All these things add up, and they make Grass sick and tired.  But Scotts likes it this way.  More for them.

Just thought you should know, Dominic.

So, to recap here:  Relax!

Oooh -- By the way, How sharp are your mower blades?  Make sure they're nice and sharp; you do not want to rip that beautiful Grass, you want to MOWWWWWWWW it, nice and smooth.  Mowing is TERRIFIC for your Grass.  Mow high and you will actually hear the Weeds swearing at you as you drive over them in your luxury Lawnmower.

Water, but ONLY when you HAVE to.  Not a drop early.

Take up Golf.

Go fishing.

Read a book.

It's Summer.  Relax.

Any questions, of course, I'm here.  Pleasure meeting you.