Raised ridges (3–5 inches) with tiny dirt volcanoes signal moles tunneling below. Moles aerate soil and eat insect larvae, but become pests when they destroy lawns and uproot plants. Tunnels brown grass quickly. The only sure way to eliminate moles is trapping.
Burrowing insectivores, 6–8 inches long, gray-black velvety fur, hairless snouts, small eyes/ears. Large front feet with long claws dig like a hoe. Solitary except breeding season—multi-tunnel systems usually house one mole.
Moles build new feeding tunnels constantly, may not reuse. Entry/exit mounds are round, symmetrical, pushed up volcano-style. Main runways 12–18 inches deep, not visible. Diet: earthworms, white grubs, insects. Prefer moist, sandy loam. Most active warm, wet months; live underground year-round.
Gophers don't create lawn ridges. They eat roots, pulling plants down, pushing soil out fan-shaped. Tunnels flattened with semicircular mounds. Mesh barriers, traps, and poison baits work for gophers—avoid strychnine baits (predators die eating poisoned gophers).
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The only sure method: a mole-specific trap that kills. Repellents, poisons, fumigants, home remedies are less effective. Above- and below-ground traps available. Follow package directions, move daily if no catch. Invert a bucket over trap to conceal and prevent tampering. Spring and fall (moist, not frozen ground) are best—moles most active. Usually only 1–2 moles; removing them solves the problem since they don't live in communities.
Chemical grub control won't work for moles—they also eat earthworms (beneficial) and other insects. Avoid lawn insecticides that kill beneficials. Key barrier method: bury 24-inch metal/hardware cloth barrier 1+ foot deep, bend bottom out 90°. Improve drainage to discourage moles (they like moisture). If not severe, wait it out—moles live <3 years.
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