Proper fertilization, mowing height, and watering are better than fungicides for disease control.
Favored by heavy fertilization, nights >68°F, days >80°F. Patches start small, merge >3 ft wide, sometimes with green center ("doughnut"). Control: moderate summer fertilization, early morning irrigation, labeled fungicides if needed.
Lawn looks thin, brown; runners slow to cover bare spots. Common in spring and fall. Control: 6 lbs 15-0-15/1,000 sq ft in late April and July—often eliminates need for fungicides.
Large dead patches in April from warm-cold cycles in Feb–March. Grass exhausts reserves trying to green up. Prevention: no fertilization after September; no spring fertilization until full green-up. Repair: transplant healthy plugs into dead areas.
Distinguish these from true diseases for correct treatment.
Petunias Dying in One Bed: Phytophthora Root Rot — Soilborne and Host-Specific
Removing Centipedegrass From St. Augustine Lawn
Rust Disease on Chemical-Free Lawn: Let It Run Its Course
Fertilizing Centipede Grass: Timing and Ratios
Managing Centipede Grass in Shady East Texas Lawns
Centipede vs. Tall Fescue: Why Centipede Wins and How to Switch
Recurring Ulcers in 11,000-Gal Pond: Bacterial Infection from Slime Coat Failure
Ganoderma Disease: Identification, Effects, and Control
Don't Spray Roundup on "Dormant" Centipedegrass
'TifBlair' Centipede Grass: Cold-Hardy for North Cobb County
TifBlair Centipedegrass: The Improved, Cold-Hardy, Low-pH Tolerant Variety
Weed Control Strategies for Centipedegrass Lawns
Liming Centipedegrass: Soil pH Management for Acid-Loving Turf
Dethatching Centipedegrass: When It's Needed and How to Do It Safely
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