Mulberry Tree Pruning: Crown Reduction vs. Pollarding for Health and Shape

Mulberries (Morus spp.) are fast-growing deciduous trees grown for fruit (white, red, black) or as fruitless ornamentals. Pruning controls size, improves air flow, and maintains productivity—but aggressive methods like pollarding can cause long-term damage if overused.

When to Prune

• Dormant season (late fall to early winter): Ideal—no leaves, easy to see structure.
• Late summer: Can stimulate new growth.
• Exceptions: Remove diseased/damaged wood anytime; address safety hazards (power lines) immediately.

Two Main Techniques

Crown Reduction

Cut the central leader back to the length of secondary branches. Reduces height and spread while preserving natural shape. Can create large wounds that heal slowly.

Pollarding

Cut all branches back to the main trunk ("knuckles") every two years. Promotes dense new growth. Best started on young trees. Also causes significant wounding over time.

Better Approach: Light, Annual Maintenance

• Never remove more than ⅓ of the canopy in one year.
• Remove dead, decayed, or diseased branches regularly.
• Eliminate crossing, rubbing, or ground-touching branches.
• Cut back to the trunk or to a lateral branch—no stubs.
• Remove basal suckers.
• Prune no more than twice per year.

Mulberries prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil. Water only in extreme drought. Gentle, consistent care yields a healthier tree than drastic periodic chopping.