Question
QUESTION: I have a cherry tree, 9' tall, 2-1/2" diameter at base. 1-3/4 diameter at 3 high, but 6 years old.  I learned that I should have watered it much more on a regular basis in the beginning because it needs enough water to reach it's potential height of 20'.  In January, 2013, I started watering it weekly with 4 gallons of water.  In March of 2013 it has shown the most blossoms than it ever has (150-200 blossoms).  Will the tree remain stunted, or can it grow to its big cherry tree potential with regular waterings 6 years after it was planted?

ANSWER: Hi Carl,

In answer to your question about the Cherry Tree, it抯 certainly possible to reach that maximum potential of 20?. From your brief description of the tree taken together with the climate you抮e describing I can see that there抯 some potential obstacles though.

Before we start talking about proper care for cherry trees I should ask where in California you live. If you live in Southern California then it抯 unlikely you抣l ever be able to successfully grow most varieties of Cherry. The reason for this is something that is termed 搗ernalization? 揷hilling,?or 搘inter chill.?A specific number of cumulative hours of chilling (temperatures between 32癋?5癋), are required to break dormancy, which varies from variety to variety. Once the appropriate number of hours of chilling have been achieved by a tree, active growth resumes in the spring, but only after trees are exposed to warm enough temperatures for natural growth processes to begin. Northern California receives between 800 and 1,500 hours of vernalization each winter while Southern California may only receive 100?00 hours. Because you抳e been able to actually grow your cherry tree and get it to bud I抣l assume that you at least partially meet to required 搗ernalization?requirements, meaning you likely live in Northern California.  

The Basics:

First, it sounds like your being diligent about watering which is a crucial part of this equation.  In addition, I would recommend that you place a 2-3?of mulch over the root zone (If you haven抰 already). Mulch, will help maintain a cooler soil conditions and also help the soil retain moisture for a longer period after watering. Successive years of mulching will also start to build the soil around the tree to more suitable conditions.

I also would implement a fertilizer regiment. But before I can offer any advice as to the regiment I would take a soil sample and send it to your local Agricultural Extension Service.  Typically all you have to do pay for shipping and the test is free. The results will give you an idea of what if anything needs to be amended and how much you should be fertilizing.   I would recommend just getting a generic fertilizer formulation from Lowes, Home Depot or a garden center that is designed for trees and shrubs.   Follow the directions on the label and you抣l likely see an improvement in growth and vigor as time passes (2-3 years).

When you抳e addressed the limiting factors that might be hindering a trees growth (water, site/soil conditions, and nutrients) you抮e almost there. If you抮e looking for fruit production then I抎 recommend that you look at the link I抳e attached below. It will guide you through the maze of likely issues you might encounter.
UC Davis website:

http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/The_Big_Picture/

This site has a plethora of useful information that I抦 sure you抣l find valuable.
Thanks for the question.

James


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for all the information and the UC Davis link.  I live in the Mountain View, CA 94043 (Santa Clara County) area, zone 9 for trees.  I'm trying to find an Agricultural Extension.  I'm not sure if it's a county office or linked to a University?  I also have a mature apricot tree and new lawn that could benefit from a soil testing.  They're not far from the cherry tree.  The lawn soil will also get 3"-4" of ready compost mixed into the top 6"-8" of soil as it's mostly clay.

Carl

Answer
Hi Carl,

I've also been looking for options for you to send a soil sample. Here in Connecticut and New York they offer soil analysis free of charge to the public. It appears though that UC Davis does not. I was able to find on their website that they offer soil testing but it only appears to be for farms and the fees are pretty steep.

I've included a link below to A&L Labs.  I've used them frequently and they can provide a recommendation sheet that will explain what the results mean and what steps to take to resolve any detected deficiencies. Their analysis is very thorough and reasonable and they have a lab in Modesto. I would call them to get information about how to send them the soil and what methods they prefer you to use when taking samples. The website may provide a lot of that information also if you look hard enough.

http://www.al-labs-west.com/sections/anservices

Best of luck to you

James