Question

Picture 3   QUESTION: Hi,

I have 2 pots yellow calandivas, condition 5 months old after last blooming. Followed instruction "how to care calandiva" carefully.

In attached "picture 3": the right stem is about to loose from the main stem. Red circle showed roots from the right stem. The blue line showed that the right stem is not joint anymore to the main stem. Is it natural ? No sign of stem wilting so far, both stems are still hard.

If you let me know your email address, I can send you 2 pictures showing overall condition. Many bottom / older leaves are yellowing. Is it natural / normal ? Or perhaps I water them too much for current condition: watering (still) once per 6 days (usually the 5th or 4th days the soil already dry), use ceramic pots and quite sandy soil.
Should I water once per 2 weeks now or more ? Are they now in so called dormant condition ?

Rgds,

Ari

ANSWER: Calandiva is a recent variety of Kalanchoe, a succulent.  Nice pix, by the way.  I like the way you simplified this so I don't have to look all over the place for different programs to open your photos.  Keep it simple.  Thanks.

I would like to know if you don't mind what directions you followed so carefully -- mainly because I must be missing something here.  Your symptoms, and even your photo, indicate this plant is badly overwatered.  Lots of work, and destructive.  Death by water.

Kalanchoes are very easy to grow.  It is actually hard to damage or destroy them.  There is no mystery here; I simply think it is rotting away as a result of too much Water.

Water only when the plant needs it.  The Soil should be dry.  Possibly they are a little cool, too, in the roots, but under-watering should fix that.

Don't worry about the plant being thirsty.  This species has adapted to water shortage; its roots need to breathe, something they cannot do if they are rotting.  Don't fertilize, either; you build up Salts in the Soil right away.  This plant needs to recover.

If you want to speed things up, recovery wise, head over to a garden center and pick up a container of Messenger Harpin Protein.  It will orchestrate a quick recovery.  Next thing you'll be seeing flowers all over everything.  Thanks for writing.  Don't forget to send me the directions.

THE LONG ISLAND GARDENER



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


Calandiva 5 months   QUESTION: Hi again,

last year I killed quite a lot calandivas, so I feel chalenged how to take care them properly and start looking many information from the internet such as following website:

http://www.ag.auburn.edu/hort/landscape/Kalanchoe.htm
http://ont.net/balfour/page6.htm
http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art33595.asp
http://www.greenbeampro.com/content/view/1370/205/
http://www.valentine.gr/kalanchoe_en.htm
etc

(I like most the website from Auburn University, very details)

Before I did my research, all calandivas could not pass a month or max. 2 months (from purchase date) amid overwatering, root / stem rot, fungus gnats attack, sun burn, improper soil, insufficient aeration (plastic pot), wrong pesticide application etc. Yes, I learn a lot my lesson and as a result they can pass 2-3 months :)

Now I put them in sandy soil using clay pot with holes, indirect sunlight, watering once a week (in the past: daily), never use chemical pesticide anymore just soap water, never use tap water only destilled water.

About watering, I should water the plants only when 2 inch from the top soil is dry, right ? Unfortunately, I cannot find this Harpin Protein in my country. Can I use Aspirine Water for quick recovery ? In fact, I give Aspirine Water once a month.

I know that after blooming I should put the plant in rest (dormant condition), no watering at all for a month and then start watering again little by little after sign of new growth. And never fertilize in dormant condition. But the problem is I'm not sure whether it's in dormant condition now or not. I enclosed the overall view, is it dormant now ?

How often should I water now ? What do you think about the calandiva in the picture ? Is it healty ? Is it normal, not too leggy ? Any unusual ?


Rgds,

Ari  

Answer
Good websites you are using for reference.  I regret you cannot get Harpin Protein; it's a new invention w/ a patent that will not be sold anywhere unless the company exports it, and they are still revving up for distribution in the U.S.  Aspirin is a good alternative and I would keep that up.

Your Greenbeampro link points out the following details about temperature and humidity:

'...Optimum production temperature range day and night is between 64F and 68F. When temperatures drop below 61F, plants are delayed and can cause blind shoots or no flowering at all.  Below 55F, growth is drastically reduced and no flowering occurs. Night temperatures above 72F can cause blind shoots or no flowering with some growth delay. Above 84F, plants risk heat delay and stretching. Above 93F, there is a risk of no flowering at all.  Relative humidity should remain at a constant level of 75-85 percent. High humidity levels above 90 percent can result in loss of leaves, yellow leaf spots and damaged flower heads and buds...'

Moisture and temperature work together.  If you have excessive moisture, higher temps will inhibit progress of Fungi and Bacteria that cause damage to roots and stems.  If you have excessive moisture and cooler temps, they just thrive and you have a dead plant in a short amount of time.  I suspect this is your problem.

I noticed one of the websites mentioned the need to make sure they are watered and not neglect them entirely.  This is a really tricky decision.  There is also mention of a pH in the Greenbeam notes, although I don't know if it's correct -- they say preferred pH is on the acid side, as low as 5.5 to 6.0.  This is quite acid, but it is worth trying.  Get yourself a quart of water and add 3 tsp of Vinegar and an Aspirin, shake to dissolve and use that to water your plants.  You'll get the low pH they are recommending and dose up with Aspirin as well.

But I can't stress the importance of temperature and moisture here.  The plant in your photo is not dormant and I don't believe you will have any trouble with this.  Much more important to maintain growth and get a handle on the Bacteria and/or Fungi that are killing your plants.  If they are on a cool windowsill, the draft alone is all they need to succumb.  Keep them out of drafts, out of cold and cool breezes, in a warm, humid environment. Under-water your plants.  Once a week is WAY too often around here, and in a humid setting it's way over the top.  Provide the temperatures specified above and err on the side of warmth and drought when unsure.

This plant is easy.  But watering is a skill you have to learn.  Practice and you will be good at this.  Other plants, far more difficult, will follow.

By the way, I think all your websites are quite good, but my votes are for Greenbeam and your Auburn website.

THE LONG ISLAND GARDENER