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Organic Questions


Question
Charlotte,

I have recently decided to go all-organic with my lawn. My only problem is that I have about 18,000sq feet of lawn. I have bought some Ringer to apply in the fall, but in the long run that can be expensive to apply 2-3 times a year. I did find some other Products like Espoma Fertilizer, which would cover more lawn for the same price. Also, I have done some research and read where some people put down Soy meal down twice a year to save on costs. I am kind of in between with going to something like Soy twice a year or using a Ringer/Espoma twice a year?

I really don抰 have a problem with weeds, but I usually put out some Barricade and that keeps the crabgrass at bay. So, next Spring I don抰 want to put down any chemicals at all. Eventually putting out the organics will keep the weeds away, but I can always do some sugar if they get out of hand next spring?

I have about 5000sq feet that I am going to start with scratch. I am going to bring in some compost mulch and till in before re-seeding. After re-seeding the area should I rake it in the soil and apply hay/straw on top of it before watering? Or re-seed the area then let the seed sit on top of the soil then apply the straw? Or don抰 use hay/straw? I don抰 have a roller to roll it in the soil.

Finally if I am going organic I should stay away from the starter fertilizer and wait until the new grass until it gets 2-3 inches; then apply some Ringer into it?


Answer
Hi Todd;
I never heard of ringer or Espoma, so I don't know what they are supposed to do to your lawn, but, if you use any chemicals with the organics, you undo wht the organics are supposed to do.
Ok, let's start with what kind of soil you have.
Is it good loose soil or does it have a high clay content?
If you have to loosen up clay, you need to till in things to loosen it up.
Good organic compost will do it, or you can make your own.
I have always used humus, peat moss and bark mulch, but i am reading up more about organics, from Howard Garrett's website, and apparently there are some things that are better, and may be less expensive.
What the sugar does is nourish the beneficial microbes that work around the clock, enriching the soil.
Sugar does not kill weeds, the rich soil does.
Weeds like opoor soil.
these things should make good soil.
If you need to loosen it up, (from too much clay), I still like cedar bark mulch.
It takes 2 years to decompose, where hardwood mulch only takes one year, so it keeps the soil looser for 2 years so the organics can have longer to do their thing, and in that time, you will end up with a really good soil in your lawn.
corn gluten is a good weed and feed, and it keeps fungus killed out of the soil. Lava sand is full of nutrients. that is why, after a volcano erupts, and the lava cools, and nature has a couple of years to do what it does, the soil is so rich the area literally turns into an eden, where anything grows lush and gorgeous.
That is what places like Haiwaii have such gorgeous flwers and plant like.
The compost, lava sand and corn gluten ( or agricultural corn meal) and some cedar bark mulch ( if it needs loosening up), and some sugar, should do a good job of onditioning your soil, and getting it started toward a really rich, lush soil.
I like cedar bark also because it has insect repellant properties, but will not interfere with the organic microbes and nemetodes, and the critters that you want to attract, lizars, toads, grass snakes etc.
Garrett recoomends dry molasses, but I like the results I get with sugar better, and I use 1 pound per 250 q. ft.
10 pounds will cover 2500 sq.ft, and you need to apply dry molasses at the rate of 10 pounds per 1000 sq.ft.
Since they cost about the same, it makes the sugar cheaper to use.
To loosen clay soil, you need to apply the amount of bark mulch to loosen it. If it is what we call hard pan clay ( so much clay water will not penetrate)you need to mix in almost 1 part bark mulch to 1 part of existing soil.
If it is just pretty hard, you can adjust the amount of bark mulch, down some.
when you use organics, use NO chemicals at all, or you wil cancel out the organics and what they will do.
You can buy all sorts of organic products. that doesn't mean you have to use them all.
I have gotten some lava sand, and am aplying it to my soil.I am also using alfalfa meal now. It has many nutrients in it, especially for flowering plants.
I make a tea of it to water flowering plants and houseplants. It nourishes the soil, and promotes more foliage and more and larger flowers.
You can strain the tea and use it in a garden sprayer to foliar feed.
You can also just broadcast the alfalfa meal over the soil and water it in.
With every watering, more of the nutrients will soak into the soil.
Organics is more about what you DON'T do, than what you do.
I have joined Howard Garrett's ground crew, which simply means I paid my annual membership of about 25 dollars, and that gives me access to the full site. The video library and the forums.
Reading the questions and answers in the forums and watching the videos, I have picked up a lot of good information, and more understanding of organic things that can be used.
If you want to check out the site, it is at   www,dirtdoctor.com
He knows all there is about organics, that is worth knowing.
You want to start a compost pile or a compost bin, and make your own compost. Saves you money, and puts a lot of things that are going into your garbage that can benefit your soil.
I put all the raw veteble waste from my kitchen in my compost bin.
All the lettuce leaves etc that you normally throw away, fruit and vegetable peels.
I run over the leaves ( most of them) that my trees drop with the lawn mower to mulch them up and let them add to the lawn.
I beg the leaves my neighbors rake up, and add them to my compost bin.
If you have weeds that don't have seeds yet, add them to the compost pile. their little rotted selves will feed what they were trying to crowd out. Seems like justice to me.LOl
Mull over what I have said, and write me if you have more questions or need some of these things clarified.
and i encourage you to check out Howard Garretts site.
I have learned enough this year to make the fee very worth while, and there is a lot more that i have not read or watched on that site, yet.
Charlotte

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