Howea includes only two palms: Howea forsteriana (Kentia Palm) and Howea belmoreana (Sentry Palm)—both excellent indoor plants. 
Among the most expensive palms, but their natural cast-iron constitution makes them worth it. Palms bring exotic flair, are top air-purifiers, and transpire heavily as natural humidifiers. Their "difficult" reputation is largely unfounded—follow our care guide, and remember: never repot too often, never prune growing stems or yank dead parts (always cut), and the only "difficult" part is actually killing them.
We combine both here because care is identical and they're often confused. Let's sort identification first.
Howea forsteriana – Kentia / Paradise Palm
Flatter fronds with elegantly drooping leaflets. Adapts far better to pot life than H. belmoreana—hence its popularity as a houseplant. (See top photo.)
Howea belmoreana – Sentry / Curly Palm
Curved leaves with erect leaflets. Does poorly in pots because roots prefer less restriction. 
More popular outdoors in subtropical climates. Unless you can provide a deep pot, choose Kentia for indoor spots.
Low light acceptable; deep shade and direct sun are not. Best balance: decent semi-light spot.
Palms are thirsty. Water frequently to keep soil moist during active growth. Reduce only in winter—but soil should stay slightly moist, never bone dry. Ensure excellent drainage; both palms hate soggy conditions.
Palms are thirsty plants and so you need to be watering frequently
In heated/air-conditioned rooms, maintain medium-high humidity. Misting is easiest. Two reasons: (1) deters Red Spider Mite (the #1 Howea pest), (2) leaflets are long-lived—brown tips from dry air persist until new fronds grow.
Weak feed every couple of months. Skip if not growing (cold/dark).
Average warmth for growth: 15–25 °C / 59–77 °F. Nights ideally cooler, but never below 10 °C / 50 °F.
Palms hate root disturbance; frequent repotting damages long-term. Fortunately, roots fill pots slowly—repot every couple of years max (young plants may need yearly until mature). Sentry Palm needs a deep pot. Firm new compost tightly around root ball.
Expensive because slow growth + difficult propagation. Even experienced growers buy new rather than propagate. Only via seed, needing high heat for germination, with 2–12 months before sprouting.
Slow even with good care. Only a few new stems per year. Want a big plant? Buy the largest you can afford.
Indoors, rarely surpass 3 m (10 ft).
Unremarkable blooms quickly become seed pods—rare and not the point. It's all about foliage.
Avoid heavy leaf-shine products—damage leaves. Use damp cloth for dust. 
Never "prune" a stem—it kills it. Remove dead growth with sharp scissors, not pulling. Identification tip: young plants—stems emerging from soil have obvious gaps (not multi-stemmed).
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Kentia Palm Brown Fronds: Water Quality and Moisture Balance
Pruning and Propagating a Leggy Dracaena reflexa
Troubleshooting Brown Leaves on Indoor Palms
Kentia Palm Brown Fronds: Light and Watering Balance
Poolside Palm Selection for Zone 9b: Beyond Queens & Foxtails
Palms in Philadelphia: A Grower's Success and Florida Career Tips
Bangalow Palm Crown Collapse and Date Palm Nutrient Deficiency: Diagnosis and Care
Repotting a Mature Kentia Palm: Handling Exposed Roots
Robilini Palm (Pygmy Date) Frost Recovery: Light Fertilizer and Spear Watch
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Identifying Cocoons on Washington Palm Fronds: Friend or Foe?
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