Moving Shrubs: Minimizing Transplant Shock for Successful Relocation

Two of my son's best buddies moved to South Carolina last summer. Familiar part of family life for years—trepidation at farewell. How would my son miss them? How would they adapt? How would we adapt to absence on soccer team?

Fortunately, boys in both locations thrived. Grey returned from Christmas visit with tales of New Year's Polar Bear Swim and surf fishing.

Transplanting shrubs is almost as traumatic as transplanting households. Whether from necessity (new deck) or boredom with tired landscape, transplanting occasionally required. Moving a shrub can be major blow or minor setback. With attention to basics, transplanted shrubs adapt as well as kids.

PRESERVE THE ROOTS

Keeping intact as many roots as possible paramount. Dr. Tim Smalley teaches UGA horticulture students to trace circle under shrub half as wide as crown, using shovel point or stick. Example: 4-foot-wide hydrangea → 2-foot circle.

Place trenching shovel or garden spade on circle, thrust blade tip into ground at angle aimed toward point 8 inches under plant center. Most roots grow 6–8 inches deep. Students circle shrub, thrusting shovels. Usually plant pops out with little effort.

Moist clay soil in winter much easier to dig than sun-baked summer clay. If soil too dry, water area, return later—moisture softens soil and hydrates plant, increasing survival.

If new spot nearby, heave freshly dug plant onto tarp or plastic, drag to fresh environment. Otherwise, wrap root ball with heavy plastic, burlap, or discarded blanket. Small plant: plop into 5-gallon bucket or 3-gallon pot.

WATER REGULARLY

Leafless forsythia, hydrangea, crape myrtle have little water need next few months. After planting, soak soil around roots, leave alone until summer. Evergreen shrubs (gardenia, azalea, holly) do need regular irrigation winter. Several windy February days dry leaves like tissue paper. With fewer roots, winter dryness harms more than summer drought. Hard to water in cold but necessary for success.

NO FERTILIZER

No fertilizer until new growth in April. If must fertilize, mix cup garden lime and few tablespoons triple superphosphate (0-46-0) into soil when digging bed before transplanting. Lime counteracts acidity; phosphorus promotes root growth. Both move slowly—adding before planting best. When new leaves develop April, sprinkle slow-release nursery fertilizer at half strength. Repeat early September.

Transplanted school chums adapted from daily visits to holiday visits—bright, healthy, happy. Attend to few details, your shrubs adapt with equal ease.

MORE INFORMATION:
Shrub Transplanting 1-2-3