Non-plant materials play a huge role in garden design. Here's a primer on selecting and maintaining paving, edging, paths, and walls.
Basics: Cost-effective, long-lasting. Must be formed, poured, finished, cured quickly. Avoid areas with ground movement (tree roots, poor drainage). Clean regularly to prevent stains.
Tip: Cracks <1/2″ wide are usually harmless if dormant. Patch with epoxy, glue, or resurfacing products; worst case, repour.
Basics: Crushed rock + bitumen. Keep clean of moss/debris; reseal every 3–4 years.
Tip: UV and heat degrade bitumen. Distress signs: numerous cracks, wavy surface, ruts, potholes. Use asphalt- or coal tar-based sealers (4–6 yr warranty). Liquid fillers work for cracks ≤1/8″.
Basics: Durable, classic. Can be mortared or dry-laid on sand/crushed rock (less heaving in North). Inspect regularly for loose units/mortar; remove mildew, moss, algae. Relevel displaced areas with sand.
Brick details: Clay bricks come in colors and half-thicknesses. Concrete bricks are cheaper but coarser. Reclaimed bricks need old mortar cleaned. Common bricks aren't for outdoor paving; face bricks resist weathering. Grades: SW (severe weather), MW (moderate), NW (no freeze).
Tip: Use bricks for retaining walls too.
Flagstone/bluestone: Natural look; best in mortar, but can be sand-bedded. Sweep and wash periodically.
Concrete pavers: Interlocking patterns, less expensive, quick to install on firm surface. No mortar or border needed.
Crushed rock: Great for patios/walks; needs rigid border. Irregular edges lock together better than round gravel, which rolls.
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