Protection from the Elements: Winterizing Roses

Prune dead tips of canes.

Winter protection. First maxim: if you select plants hardy to your area, you won't worry much about protection. Buy roses budded onto rootstock that survives your climate (e.g., multiflora for zone 6 and colder) and plant the bud union at the correct level for your zone.

Click here to learn how to properly prune your roses.

Hardy by nature. Hardiness measures a rose's ability to survive winter temperatures. Many species roses, shrubs, old roses, climbers, and some newer hybrid teas and floribundas survive freezing with little or no protection. Miniatures are more cold-resistant than hybrid teas (in zones 6+, only 12 inches of dried leaves needed). Protection level depends on winter severity and rose hardiness. Where freezing is rare, no protection needed. Where freezing is common, protect roses stretched out of their zone. Snow can insulate if it stays, keeping temperatures just below freezing and canes from drying out. Not everyone has dependable snow cover.

Chicken Wire Collar

Providing extra protection. In a chicken wire cylinder, cover roses with 12 inches of soil and 12 inches of leaves (shredded oak works well). This protects bud union and lower canes. Remove mound in spring and work into soil. Rose cones (polystyrene or compressed fiber) sold at garden centers should be filled with mounded soil and mulch, weighted with a brick. Remove top when weather warms for air circulation and to inhibit mold. For climbers, untie from support, bundle, and wrap in burlap. For tree roses, partially dig up, lay on side, cover with soil and mulch. When temps fall below 28°F, move container roses to unheated shelter/garage (not colder than 10°F), away from wind. When foliage falls, remove remaining leaves. Water occasionally, don't fertilize. After spring frost danger passes, move containers outside, prune lightly to start new growth. In zones 9-10 (above 28°F), container roses can stay outside; reduce water, don't fertilize while dormant.