my garden of lilies
Diane Peck
True lily flowers (Lilium) are treasured for their large, showy, often fragrant blooms. Six plain or dramatically marked tepals ("petals") form trumpet shapes atop tall, erect stems. Note: This covers true lilies from plump, scaly bulbs—Asiatic and Oriental types. Daylilies and peace lilies, despite the name, are not true lilies.
These hardy bulbs are easy to grow with minimal care—if planted in the right spot. They suit both formal and naturalistic gardens, thrive in containers, and make magnificent cut flowers. By blending early, mid-, and late-season varieties, you'll enjoy blooms from spring through frost.
Planting Lilies for Years of Blooms
- Plant lily bulbs in autumn.
- Zones 9–10: Lilies need a cold dormant period; refrigerate bulbs before planting.
- Choose a well-drained site. After rain, the first spot to dry out is ideal. Water trapped under bulb scales causes rot.
- Select full sun (6–8 hours daily). In shade, stems lean toward light or become spindly and flop.
- Most popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil; some tolerate lime or prefer alkaline (e.g., Madonna lilies).
- Loosen soil 12–15 inches deep. Deep planting encourages stem-rooting for stability (often eliminating staking) and keeps bulbs cool in heat.
- Enrich with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter for drainage.
- Plant bulbs 2–3 times as deep as their height, pointy side up. Firm soil gently.
- Space bulbs at 3x the bulb's diameter. For impact, plant in groups of 3–5.
- Water thoroughly.
Seasonal Care
- Water freely in active growth, especially if rainfall < 1 inch/week.
- Mulch to keep roots cool—mulch should feel moist, not wet.
- Apply high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from early spring until 6 weeks post-flowering.
- Keep soil moist in winter.
- Each spring: thin compost layer + 2 inches of mulch.
- Stake tall varieties.
- Lilies don't rebloom, but deadhead to prevent seed-making energy drain.
- Leave foliage until brown in fall—critical for energy storage. Cut dead stalks in late fall or early spring.
- Before winter, add 4–6 inches of mulch to delay ground freeze and extend root growth. Remove after last hard frost.
- Divide every 3–4 years as new spring growth begins. Lift, divide into clumps, replant with compost and bonemeal.
Pests and Diseases
- Gray mold in wet, cool springs/summers. Ensure good air circulation; don't crowd plants.
- Viruses spread by aphids (some cultivars are virus-tolerant).
- Red lily beetles, slugs, snails.
- Deer, rabbits, voles, groundhogs may eat entire plants. Consider wire cages for bulbs if problematic.
Harvest and Storage: Displaying Lilies in Vases
- Cut lilies with buds just opening—showing color, not tight green.
- Trim stems 1 inch on a diagonal with a sharp knife immediately.
- To avoid orange pollen stains, snip off central stamens.
- Remove lower leaves so none sit underwater.
- Arrangements last 2+ weeks. Change water every few days.
- Add cut-flower food at half the recommended rate for other flowers.
Recommended Varieties
Of nine divisions, Asiatic and Oriental are garden favorites.
- Asiatic lilies: Earliest bloomers, easiest to grow. Colors: white, pinks, vivid yellows, oranges, reds. Heights: 1–6 ft. Fragrance largely bred out, but beloved by floral arrangers.
- Oriental hybrids: Bloom mid- to late summer as Asiatics fade. Heights: 2–8 ft. Intoxicating fragrance intensifies after dark. Huge white, pink, red, or bicolor blooms. Superb cut flowers that perfume entire rooms.
Wit & Wisdom
- "Lily" is misleading—daylilies, water lilies, lilies-of-the-valley, and lilyturf aren't true lilies. Identity theft existed long before computers!
- Lilies thrive with low companion plants that shade their roots from drying out.
