Many annuals, wildflowers, and vegetables can be seeded directly—broadcast for a natural look or in traditional rows. Others are best started in containers: slow-growing perennials, expensive/fine seeds, warm-season crops when garden soil is too cold/wet.
Plants with delicate roots or taproots that transplant poorly:
Remove weeds, loosen soil, work in amendments with fork, shovel, or rototiller. Add complete fertilizer per label. Rake smooth. If no rain, moisten bed thoroughly a few days before planting. At sowing, soil should be moist but not soggy.
Prepare soil (don't dig in fertilizer yet). Make furrows per packet instructions for depth and spacing. Lay out rows north-south for equal sun. Use hoe, rake, or stick; for straight rows, use board or taut string as guide. Dig two fertilizer furrows alongside each seed furrow—2″ away, 1″ deeper. Apply fertilizer in these furrows per label. Sow seeds evenly, spacing per packet. Water with fine spray; keep surface moist until germination. Thin overcrowded seedlings while small.
Buy fresh seeds dated for current year. Forms: loose (packets), pelletized (coated for handling), tapes (biodegradable paper with spaced seeds). Store extra in airtight jar in cool, dry place—many viable 1 year, some several years.
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