Even seeds from a reputable supplier can be a gamble. A seed may look perfect yet lack the vitality to produce a strong, hardy plant. That's why selecting seeds carefully—whether bought or saved—is one of the most important steps in gardening.
If you collect seeds from your own garden, don't just pick the prettiest flower. A weak, straggly plant can produce a single beautiful blossom, but its seeds will likely yield more weak, straggly plants. Instead, evaluate the entire plant: Is it sturdy, well-shaped, and symmetrical? Does it bear a good number of quality blooms? Those are the traits that will be passed on.
Visit a seedsman's garden and you'll see blossoms marked with strings—those are the ones chosen for seed. The gardener has selected them based on the overall vigor and form of the plant, not just the flower.
When you can't know the parent plant, focus on the seeds themselves. Larger, plumper seeds contain more stored food (in the cotyledons) to fuel the embryonic plant until its roots can take over. A small, thin seed has a limited energy reserve, increasing the risk that the seedling will fail before it becomes established.
The food-storage structures are called cotyledons—one in monocots, two in dicots. This feature also helps classify plants. Conifers like pines have several cotyledons, while most garden plants have one or two.
Two other critical factors are purity and viability. Seeds can be mixed with look-alike weeds or contaminated with debris. Large seeds are easy to clean; tiny seeds are not. Viability—the ability to germinate—declines with age, improper storage, or if seeds were harvested immature. Each species has a finite lifespan.
A germination test reveals the percentage of seeds likely to sprout. For large seeds like corn or beans, a high percentage is essential because they are spaced precisely. For tiny seeds sown thickly in drills, a lower percentage (e.g., 50%) can still yield a good stand because sheer numbers compensate.
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