April wraps the entire month in spring. With March madness behind us and May's merriment ahead, many feel the need to pause and appreciate our gardens. April brims with tulips, daffodils, Virginia bluebells, Yoshino cherry and crabapple blossoms, flowering dogwood, candytuft, azaleas, creeping phlox, and more.
Everyone's a gardener in springtime.
Prune just after they bloom. Wait too long and you'll cut off next year's flowers. Same with forsythia—prune soon after flowering to shape or manage size.
It's normal to see significant leaf shed on southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) beginning this month. Some find it messy, but if you let the magnolia grow naturally without limbing up, leaves fall within the drip line and hide under the tree's skirt.
Historically, encouraging a ground-touching skirt involved weighing lower branches with rope and bricks. A skirt hides leaves and makes the tree stately from the ground up. Once limbs are cut, there's no going back.
Plant basil after the final frost. Biennials like parsley and perennials like rosemary, chives, thyme, and mint can go in now.
For preserving, plant determinate bush types—they fruit and ripen all at once (within a week). For vine-ripened tomatoes all summer through frost, plant indeterminate varieties.
Water-wise doesn't mean never watering—it means watering wisely. Plants need regular water the first weeks after planting or transplanting, and during development—even drought-tolerant ones.
I divide garden beds into watering zones: oasis, transitional, and xeric.
A sharpened hoe is your best friend in a sustainable garden. Put chemicals away and hoe weeds—good exercise and better for the environment.
Read more ways to naturally tackle weeds
If you forced paperwhite narcissus indoors over holidays using soil, plant outdoors now for years of enjoyment. If forced without soil, it's spent—compost it.
I know fading daffodil foliage drives you crazy, but keep those clippers away. Yellowing leaves collect food for next year's nourishment.
Wait until after the last frost for tender annuals like impatiens and petunias. The National Climatic Data Center helps determine your region's last frost date.
Don't rush—garden centers stock summer annuals well before planting time. Know when it's safe.
Problems with impatiens last year? Impatiens downy mildew (Plasmopara obducens) has become an East Coast issue. Entire beds have died in weeks.
What to watch for:
Sadly, little can be done. Best defense: stay aware. If you suspect infection, remove plants and all debris. Don't replant impatiens in that bed for several years.
More regional gardening guides
Planting Tomatoes in Australia: Climate-Specific Techniques for Bountiful Harvests
Growing Hydroponic Tomatoes at Home: Setup to Harvest
Southwest February Garden Checklist: Citrus, Roses, and Seed Starting
Mid-Atlantic February Garden Checklist: Seed Dreams and Indoor Greens
Texas December Garden Checklist: Planting, Pruning & Frost Protection for Mild Winters
California December Garden Checklist: Toyon, Camellias, and Holiday Traditions
California Gardener's November Checklist: Persimmons, Bulbs & Cool-Season Planting
Tomato and Pumpkin Blossom Drop: Pollination, Water, Fertilizer
Why Are My Tomato Plants Not Producing Fruit?
September Garden Checklist for the Northeast
September Garden Checklist for the Southwest
Northwest April Checklist: Planting Annuals, Vegetables, Fruits, Herbs, Lawns, and Perennials
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