Complete Guide to Growing Clematis (Virgin's Bower)

Growing Clematis – The Queen of Vines

Pronunciation: klem'uh-tis

This diverse group of ornamental vines invites vertical gardening. There's a clematis for nearly every situation: grow shorter, non-climbing types through shrub roses and small trees; cover arbors or trellises with taller varieties. The long flowering season begins with compact alpinas and macropetalas in early spring, continues through early summer with large-flowered hybrids, late summer with texensis and viticella varieties, and ends with vigorous Clematis paniculata that can cover an unsightly structure in one season.

Light and Watering

Most clematis need at least 6 hours of sun; some tolerate partial shade, and all benefit from afternoon shade in the South. Clematis prefers a cool root run—lay flat stones at the base or plant annuals/shallow-rooted perennials around them. Water regularly, especially during dry periods. Clematis is deep-rooted; water thoroughly.

Soil, pH, and Fertilizer

Clematis thrives in rich, well-drained soil with neutral pH. Check pH and add lime if needed. Dig a generous hole, amend soil, avoid fresh manure. Plant the crown 3–4 inches below soil surface to protect dormant buds. Provide support immediately. Clematis is a heavy feeder: apply low-nitrogen fertilizer (5-10-10) in spring when buds are 2 inches long. Alternate every 4–6 weeks with balanced 10-10-10 until end of growing season.

Pests and Diseases

Clematis can suffer from fungal wilt (sudden wilting, browning/blackening). Prune out diseased tissue, destroy it, and disinfect pruners with bleach solution. Usually not fatal if planted correctly—dormant buds send new growth. Handle gently; physical injury to stems causes wilting and death.

Companion Planting

Plant at base of shrubs and small trees; vines weave through foliage and extend bloom season. Use woody structure of shrub roses to support non-clinging varieties. For example, grow purple/blue clematis through a yellow shrub rose for contrast. Adjust culture for competition from supporting woody plants.

Reflowering

To promote late-season rebloom, cut vine by half after main bloom period. Varieties flowering on old and new wood often produce a few blooms at season's end.

Transplanting

Young vines may be moved with plenty of soil if watered religiously. Depending on variety, cut back lightly or severely before moving in early spring.

Pruning Groups

Group I – Bloom on old wood; no pruning except to control size (prune lightly after flowering to a pair of healthy buds). Includes C. alpina 'Stolwijk Gold', C. montana 'Mayleen'.

Group II – Bloom first on old wood, then on new; prune lightly in early spring to shape and remove weak growth, then prune after bloom if desired. Includes many large-flowered hybrids (e.g., 'Nelly Moser', 'The President', 'Henryi', etc.).

Group III – Bloom on new growth; cut back to 12 inches in early spring. Ideal for growing through shrubs as old growth removed annually. Includes C. paniculata, C. jackmanii 'Superba', 'Etoile Violette', 'Comtesse de Bouchaud', etc. For container-grown Parisienne™, prune hard (to 12″) in early spring and again after first flush.

End-of-Season Care

Mulch but keep material away from crowns and stems. Ensure Group I and II vines are tied securely to supports for winter winds.

Calendar of Care

Early Spring: Fertilize with 5-10-10 when new growth reaches 2 inches. Transplant young vines now. Prune according to group: leave Group I alone; lightly shape Group II; cut Group III to 12 inches. First spring after planting: prune all varieties to lowest pair of healthy buds.

Mid-Spring: Continue feeding monthly, alternating 5-10-10 and 10-10-10. Plant annuals at base for cool root zone if not using stones. Tie vines to supports as they grow.

Late Spring: Mulch if desired, keep away from crowns. Water thoroughly if dry. Cultivate carefully—physical injury causes wilting. Tie new growth. Lightly prune Group I after flowering if needed.

Summer: Watch for fungal wilt; remove and destroy affected parts, sterilize pruners. Group II may be cut back by half after main bloom to encourage new flowers. Water as needed.

Fall: Secure Group I and II vines to supports for winter. Mulch if desired, keep away from crown. Water deeply if dry.