Flowering and Scented Plants: Choosing Multi-Purpose Plants for Beauty and Wildlife

Choosing Useful as Well as Beautiful Flowering and Scented Plants

You can only have so many plants—make them all multi-purpose, choose only the best. Don't grow an annual when a similar perennial exists. Don't choose a plant just for flowers if another offers equal flowers plus scent, edible parts, or attractive foliage. Even if solely interested in beauty, choose plants benefiting wildlife.

Plants are the garden's most important part and deserve understanding. Good gardeners work with nature, not against it. Plants respond directly to our care—understand their needs and they flourish. Group plants to give each the best treatment for its nature.

Family Ties: Latin Names Reveal Relationships

All plants have a two-word Latin name (genus, species), often a third (cultivar). E.g., Viburnum opulus 'Sterile' Snowball—Viburnum genus, Caprifoliaceae family, opulus = guelder rose species, 'Sterile' = non-berrying cultivar, 'Snowball' = commercial clone name. Most species in a genus resemble each other; knowing one helps guess others' needs—though exceptions exist (herbaceous clematis, evergreen shrubby jasmine).

Crucially, closely related plants (same genus) suffer same pests/diseases. The more widely grown a family, the more pests/diseases plague them. Brassicas (cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli) are common and closely related—attacked by many pests/diseases; same for roses. Spinach and peonies, less widely grown, are less troubled. Garden plants related to common natives share their pests/diseases, but natural controls usually manage them if we haven't destroyed those systems.

Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials

Annuals live, flower, die in one season (spring to autumn). Prettiest flowers, rapid growth fills gaps. Many vegetables (sweet corn, peas, broad beans) are annuals. Many perennials grown as annuals, discarded or killed by frost. Annuals prefer sowing in place, resent root disturbance; propagated by seed.

Biennials grow one year, flower next. Many vegetables (roots, onions) are biennials but eaten before cycle completes. Attractive flowers: Canterbury bells, honesty, sweet rocket. Some (wallflowers, hollyhocks, stocks, sweet William) may live another year or two but usually replaced. Moving dormant biennials doesn't harm them.

True perennials last more than a year or two. Some short-lived, some monocarpic (die after seeding), most long-lasting. Creeping-rooted ones form new plants at margins—effectively immortal; trees live millennia. Perennials form the bulk of ornamental/fruiting plants. Semi-permanent, no annual replacement, established roots endure poor conditions. Most movable when young, resent moving when older—often easier to propagate new than move old.

Soft or Shrubby? Deciduous or Evergreen?

Perennials split: soft growth (bulbs, herbaceous) dies back in winter, springs from roots, propagated by division/root cuttings, some from seed. Form larger clumps, don't grow taller—need no pruning, only autumn tidy-up. Woody/shrubby grow larger yearly, may need pruning. Propagated from cuttings/layering, some need grafting/budding. Seed-grown shrubby perennials variable, slow to flower/fruit.

Deciduous woody plants drop leaves in autumn, go partially dormant—good time to prune/move. Though appearing dormant, root growth continues unless soil frozen. Evergreens retain foliage year-round, dropping leaves gradually. In hard weather, suffer from drying winds and frozen soil—moisture loss leads to scorched foliage or death. Waxy leaf coatings prevent water loss (making leaves slow to compost). Dense cover provides excellent winter shelter for ladybirds and other predators—include in different garden parts as refuges. Most evergreens never dormant; prune/move only in early spring once soil warms for quick recovery.

Tender or Hardy?

Hardy plants survive several degrees of frost in open garden. Half-hardy—bedding plants needing warmth for sowing, hardening off before planting after last frosts. Tender die at slightest frost; stovehouse need real heat (Victorian popularity, now mostly houseplants/conservatory).

Hardy annuals—large group, no protection needed, sow direct when soil warms in spring. Many also autumn-sown to overwinter for earlier display. Some tender perennials survive years in favorable sites, killed only by extreme winters. Against a wall with root protection, surprising plants (Opuntia, passionflowers, palms) can grow. Less hardy (fuchsia, lemon verbena) nursed through bad weather by thick mulch (straw, loose airy material)—tops may die back but roots shoot again in spring.

Plants grown hard (outdoors, strong but not lush growth, no extra feed from mid-summer) withstand frost and temperature change better than soft-grown (indoors/warm patio) or lush (overfed/watered). Never feed heavily in late summer/autumn—promotes soft growth that doesn't ripen, prone to disease and frost damage. Most plants more frost-resistant if roots not wet; well-draining soil and warmth-retaining mulch protect roots. Often frost isn't the killer—warm damp period after encourages rot. Dry spots (wall base) shelter plants well. Silver/hairy-leaved plants rot from damp—survive almost any weather if rain kept off with cloche or glass sheet.

Plants shock from rapid temperature changes—keep gradual. Harden off by day-out/night-in for a few days before transplanting. Similarly, don't move outdoor plants to hot rooms abruptly—acclimatize gently.