Herbs: What to Grow and Where to Plant Them

From ancient religious ceremonies and cooking to magicians' potions, herbs have been valued for millennia. Today they're primarily grown for culinary use, and every garden deserves a small herb patch. Some are still cultivated for medicinal properties documented in Chinese herbals 2,700 years ago and known to ancient Egyptians.

The Anglo-Saxons used native British herbs for flavoring and medicine—reflected in names like lungwort, liverwort, coughwort, throatwort, and woundwort ("wort" meaning "plant"). Monks continued this tradition, with nearly every monastery maintaining a herb or "infirmary" garden. After the monasteries dissolved, herb cultivation spread nationwide, becoming the household woman's responsibility for physic and kitchen needs.

WHAT TO GROW

Most herb plants spread readily, and the garden can look untidy if useful parts aren't harvested as they become available, or if more herbs are planted than needed.

What you can grow depends on garden size and location, but a few plants of borage, chives, fennel, mint, parsley, rosemary, sorrel, summer savory, tarragon, thyme, and a sage bush will provide a representative, varied collection for salads or cooked dishes.

Borage, thyme, and chives thrive in window-boxes, and parsley also flourishes even in towns, provided the air isn't too sooty.

Herbs: basil, scallion (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

WHERE TO GROW

Plant herbs in a sunny, south-facing position sheltered from north and east winds and frost. The spot immediately outside the kitchen door—often considered ideal—is sometimes impractical for this reason.

Ideally, the ground should slope slightly southward so sun-loving herbs go at the top, while those preferring damper soil and less sun sit at the bottom. If growing herbs in a vegetable garden, ensure they won't be overshadowed by tall plants.

SOIL

Most herbs thrive on well-drained, light soil; many, including marjoram and thyme, flourish on chalky ground. Angelica, bergamot, chamomile, chervil, and mint prefer heavier soils. Generally, herbs aren't fussy and succeed in most gardens.

Clean the ground thoroughly, especially removing perennial weeds like couch grass and ground elder. Heavy or sticky soil can be lightened by forking in up to 2 bucketfuls of mortar rubble or wood ash per square yard, but special preparation isn't usually needed. For large-scale herb growing, send soil samples to the county agricultural adviser (address from local council).

1. Angelica
2. Dill
3. Peppermint
4. Thyme
5. Hyssop
6. Sorrel
7. Southernwood
8. Chamomile
9. Chervil
10. Anise
11. Nasturtium
12. Lavender
13. Tansy
14. Borage
15. Bergamot
16. Rosemary
17. Caraway
18. Comfrey

A CHESS-BOARD HERB GARDEN

Plant herbs in 1-yard squares. Alternate squares can be paved or filled with granite chippings or gravel.

PLANNING

Herbs can grow in borders or rows like a vegetable garden, but if growing many different herbs together, plant taller ones—angelica, fennel, rosemary, sage—at the back, and smaller ones—chives, balm, marjoram, mint, thyme—near the front.

Irregular patches dovetailing together can hold individual plants, though for effect, herbs flowering simultaneously should be planted well apart.

A pleasing arrangement uses square blocks like a chessboard, alternating herb squares with gravel, granite chippings, or paving stones. Each plot should be about 1 yard square. Plants of varying heights can grow near each other without overshadowing neighbors.

Alternatively, group plants of the same natural order in one bed—e.g., Labiatae (basil, lavender, marjoram, mint, sage) in one, Umbelliferae (angelica, caraway, coriander, dill, fennel) in another.

For complicated designs, draw a detailed plan first. Various patterns work, with beds around a central feature like a sundial or bird bath. Four borders around a central grass plot or chamomile lawn are attractive. If space allows, a rowan, mulberry, or magnolia tree can center the lawn, but consider eventual shade.

For large plots, a paved herb garden is probably most attractive—not only for the fascinating plants between stones, but because stone color provides a perfect backdrop. Beds within can be circular or square.

Intricate Elizabethan knot garden designs also work, with beds edged in santolina, box, violets, or thyme, and plants arranged for maximum decorative effect from contrasting leaf forms and colors—mint with parsley, tansy with poppies, catmint with verbena.

PROPAGATION

SEED

Some herbs—anise, borage, chervil, coriander, dill, summer savory—are treated as annuals, with seed freshly sown each spring.

When soil is warm enough (usually April or early May), draw drills 8 inches apart and sow a pinch of seed along each. When seedlings are handleable, thin to 3 inches apart, later 6 inches to 2-3 feet apart depending on ultimate plant size. For decorative use, sow broadcast and rake in. Thin seedlings in two stages to about 9 inches apart.

CUTTINGS

Most non-annual herbs propagate by summer cuttings—sage, lavender, rosemary, thyme, winter savory.

Take 3-4 inch cuttings from the parent plant using only the previous year's growth. Prepare as described in Propagation and plant firmly in soil. Most cuttings can go in open ground rows during summer in gritty soil. Alternatively, place cuttings around the edge of a clay pot filled with sand to root, then plant out. Whichever method, label herbs and protect from wind and sun for about two weeks. Spray with water evenings until roots form and support the plants.

Cuttings can also be made in November and overwintered in a frame, cold greenhouse, or sheltered outdoor spot with protection during worst weather. They'll be ready for permanent positions the following spring.

DIVISION

Mints propagate simply by division. They form long runner-like growths creeping just under the soil surface, producing root groups at each node. In early spring, uproot runners, break from parent plant, and plant independently.

Crowns of herbs like tansy and tarragon can also be divided and replanted in spring or autumn. Division instructions are in Propagation.

MANAGEMENT

Occasional summer hoeing is the principal herb garden task. Twiggy aromatic plants like lavender, sage, and thyme don't usually need watering, but soft-growth herbs like angelica and mints require moisture.

HARVESTING

Incorrect harvesting or wrong timing loses herb value. Know exactly which plant part to use—this is given in the recommended herbs list.

When the part is ready, choose a dry day and wait until dew has left plants. Collect into a flat box or basket to avoid crushing, and don't gather more than you can process immediately—they lose fragrance quickly once cut.

Herbs are generally used fresh in summer and dried for winter. Most can be used fresh or dried, though chervil, chives, mint, rosemary, and sage are best taken fresh.

ROOTS

Lift carefully in autumn when mature, wash free of soil, immediately drain all water. Trim underground stems or fibrous roots.

WHOLE PLANT

When both roots and above-ground parts are used, lift the plant when in bloom and wash roots free of soil.

HERB (Aerial Parts)

When mature—after flowering—cut at ground level with a sharp knife. Only clean, healthy plants are useful.

LEAVES

Harvest just before flowers fully open, when the plant bursts with life. Choose perfect leaves, not insect-damaged ones.

FLOWERS

Nip off flower-heads the day before maturity to ensure essential oils aren't lost. Blooms should be perfect so they don't deteriorate while drying and spoil pot-pourri perfume. Keep as insect-free as possible; if destined for floating in drinks or candying, drop in water briefly to wash away earwigs.

SEED

Estimating seed maturity is difficult; color is usually the best indicator, and experience helps.

To extract seed, cut off the whole flowerhead, tie in a paper bag, and hang upside down in a light, airy place so seeds fall into the bag as the head dries. This keeps seeds dust-free and prevents mixing. Sometimes seed must be shaken or rubbed from capsules—do this over a clean shoebox or deep-sided container after drying.

DRYING HERBS

Dry herbs indoors. Conditions needed:

(a) Good ventilation
(b) Shade (except roots, which dry in full sun)
(c) Steady initial temperature of about 90°F (32°C), checked with an air thermometer.

Best places: well-shaded greenhouse, airing cupboard, airy loft or spare room, shed or garage.

Avoid kitchen, wash house, bathroom, or corrugated iron shed/garage—all produce too much condensation.

Dry immediately after harvesting to prevent decomposition. Spread plants/parts in shallow lidless boxes, on trays, butter muslin, or wire netting. Space them flat without overlapping. Keep each kind separate.

Some plants like artemisia or sage can hang upside down in small bunches from rafters of an airy shed, garage, greenhouse, or indoors on a rod/cord away from cold draughts. Bunches shouldn't be large or tightly tied so air circulates freely.

Good drying reduces moisture before the plant dies. Maintain 90°F (32°C) or slightly over for first 24 hours, then reduce without falling below 72°F (22°C); otherwise drying won't complete satisfactorily and plants reabsorb moisture. Turn plants once or twice during first 24 hours, then daily. Inadequate drying yields dead material; hurried/excessive drying yields brittle, useless material.

Roots take longest to dry; stems longer than leaves or flowers. Herbs are sufficiently dry when they snap readily. Seeds are dry when they shake easily from pods.

STORING

After crumbling dried herbs between hands to remove twiggy pieces and discarding stems if not required (e.g., sage), store immediately before dust collects. Use airtight containers: wooden bins, boxes, bottles, jars, or paper bags. Hang bags so air circulates. If moisture forms inside, herbs aren't properly dried—spread on clean white paper and dry further.

USING HERBS

Herbs are now mainly for flavoring, though some retain medicinal use. Culinary herbs enhance food when used in right quantities—remember they add subtlety, not to swamp the dish. Herbs for warm dishes are added just before cooking completes; for uncooked/cold dishes, add early to let flavor develop. If using fresh herbs, don't chop or crush on a board—snip repeatedly with scissors to retain essence. Food pairings are in the recommended herbs list.

SPECIAL MIXTURES

Fines herbes: Usually chervil, chives, parsley, and tarragon finely chopped.

Bouquet garni: A bunch of herbs—usually parsley, thyme, bay, tarragon, sometimes marjoram—tied with thread and added during cooking to stock or water. Dried herbs work if tied in muslin. Remove before serving.

HERB TEA

Herb teas or tisanes have been drunk for centuries, listed in herbalists' catalogues. They're not just medicine but also for refreshing flavor, pleasant aroma, and color. To make a tisane, pour boiling water over fresh or dried plants and infuse 7-10 minutes before drinking. Sometimes bottled, but uncommon.

POT-POURRI

A pot-pourri mixes flower-heads and leaves preserved with essential oils, kept where scent pervades a room or cupboard.

Many mixtures use flowers and leaves that hold scent when dried: roses, lavender, rosemary, bergamot, verbena, geranium leaves. Can be expensive, but an economical recipe works well.

Mix 1 oz allspice, 1 oz cloves, 1 oz ground nutmeg, 4 oz orris-root; add juice and grated rind of 3 lemons. Optional additions: 15 oz geranium oil, 1 oz lemon essence, ½ oz bergamot oil, ½ oz lavender spirit.

Separately mix handfuls of rose petals (dried 1-2 hours in sun), salt, and saltpetre—a few pinches each per handful. Let both mixtures stand a few hours, then stir together. Put in a tightly fastened container; add more scented flowers/leaves as available without drying first. Keep mixture moist—add salt if it dries. At season's end, stir again and put in a bowl. Perfume lasts a long time.