Question
I live in a new subdivision (in Connecticut), and half of my yard is empty lawn, but the back half is older forest.  I'd like to plant some shade trees in the open area, and it occurs to me that instead of buying a maple or oak tree, I might be able to transplant one from the woods.  Is this crazy?  

If I do this, what size should I pick?  There are many sizes to choose from back there - from a few inches tall to 10-15 feet, and they generally seem to be packed in pretty close together.  I'd like to move a larger one, but is there a point where the tree is too well-established and I'll be more likely to injure it?  Also, I've got mostly maple, red and white oak, and beech.  Is there one that will likely transplant better than the others, or do better out in the sun away from the rest of the forest?  

Answer
It can be done but will be a large job. There are venders who use a machine  one of which is called a Vemeer tree spade to move trees of all sizes. There are several types. Your local nursery may know of venders near your location.
The bottom line maybe go to a good nursery and buy the size tree you need. It will have a much better chance to survive and more then likely be less cost than a large tree being moved. Small trees that you can handle yourself maybe worth the try at least all you will be out is the labor.  

Here are the general recommendation to transplant a tree.


Deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs may be planted either in the spring or the fall. Deciduous plants may be moved in the spring as soon as the frost is out of the ground, up until the time when new foliage is partly unfurled. In the fall, they may be planted once the leaves start to turn color up until the ground freezes.

Although all trees and shrubs can be moved in either spring or fall, there are some which establish themselves better when moved in the spring, such as the softwoods (willows, poplars, birches).

Evergreens should be moved earlier in the fall than deciduous plants so they have time to form new roots. They need at least 6 weeks before the ground freezes. In the spring, Evergreens can be planted up to 4 weeks after deciduous trees have opened their leaves, providing that the newly planted trees receive adequate water.

Digging the root ball:

When you want to dig up a tree or shrub for transplanting, retain as much of the root system as possible. Deciduous trees that are only 3-4 years old may be moved with their roots bare.

Older deciduous trees and all ages of evergreens, can be successfully moved only if a ball of soil is left around the roots. The exposed roots should be protected with moist burlap or newspaper or with polyethylene sheeting. Every effort should be made to reduce root exposure to wind and sun, keeping the ball as moist as possible. It's best to prepare the hole before digging up the tree you wish to move.

Size of the root ball and size of the hole:

For deciduous trees and shrubs the soil ball should be:

Width = 9-12 in. in diameter/every 1 in. of tree diameter
Depth = 6 in./every 1 in. of tree diameter

For example: A tree trunk 2 inches wide would need a soil ball of 18-24 inches wide and 12 inches deep.

To calculate the weight of the soil ball before you move it, use this formula:

Weight of soil ball = width of ball x depth of ball x .05 lbs.

For example: A tree trunk of 2 inches wide would have a soil ball that weighed:
(24" wide x 12" deep) x .05 lbs = 14.5 lbs.

A tree trunk of 4 inches wide would have a soil ball that weighed:
(48" wide x 24" deep) x .05 = 56 lbs.

To ensure that the soil ball is not disturbed when moving, it should be held together with a piece of burlap or sacking. "Lace" the burlap with heavy twine if the tree is to be moved a considerable distance.

The new hole should be twice the size of the rootball and fill with top soil, mulch with not more than 4 inches of mulch and water. Large tree may also have to be braced.