Transplanting Trees: UGA's Proven Method for Success

Moving a tree is a delicate operation. Professional root balls contain only 15–50% of the original root system, yet many trees survive if moved correctly. The best time is late fall or winter when the soil is moist and demand for water is low.

Size Matters

Hand-digging a tree taller than 6 feet rarely preserves enough roots. Dr. Tim Smalley recommends a root ball diameter of at least 18 inches, or 12 inches per inch of trunk diameter measured 4 feet above ground. A 3-inch diameter dogwood needs a 36-inch wide ball weighing ~440 lbs—best left to professionals.

Bare-Root Transplanting

For deciduous trees up to 4-inch caliper, bare-root transplanting in late winter works well. Use a spading fork to excavate roots, shake off soil, and cleanly clip recalcitrant roots. Prepare the new hole beforehand so the tree can be set quickly at its original depth.

Watering Is Critical

Whether balled or bare-root, water deeply (10–15 gallons weekly) for the first year. New roots emerge by spring but cannot support the canopy without constant soil moisture.

Staking and Fertilizing

Stake trees over 4 feet tall with two stakes and flexible ties; remove after 12 months. At planting, incorporate lime and triple superphosphate (0-46-0). After leaves expand, apply 1 pint of 10-10-10 under the canopy.

Mulch Generously

Mulch an area at least twice the width of the planting hole. This conserves moisture, moderates temperature, suppresses weeds, and protects from mowers. Mulch encourages roots to explore native soil, ensuring long-term health.