New to Cymbidiums: Care Differences from Phalaenopsis, Repotting, and Virus Concerns

Question:

Hey Jim, I bought a Cymbidium on sale (no longer flowering, slightly damaged). Never had one—have 3 Phals. Major care differences beyond temp/light? It has 6 bulbs, healthy roots. Some leaves look burnt with water marks where leaf meets bulb. On Phals, water in the crown is fatal—same for Cymbidiums? When watering, avoid leaf-bulb junction? Planning to repot—fir bark, horticultural charcoal, minerals okay?

Answer:

Hi Kate,

Yes, key differences: Phals are primarily indoor; Cymbidiums should be outdoors as much as possible.

Guidelines:

• Bright light for light–medium green leaves. If currently dark green, increase light slowly over a month (sudden exposure burns). South: midday shade; North: full sun often OK.
• Temps 45–85°F (tolerates 30–100°F with protection).
• Light breezes beneficial.
• Water when media starts drying—every other day in summer, every 10–14+ days in winter.
• Balanced orchid fertilizer per label.

Your proposed mix is fine. Water on leaves isn't a big issue, but water in morning so leaves dry before night. Watering afternoon/evening causes problems.

Follow-up: Kate thinks it has fleck virus (tiny black dots, uneven coloring). Friend at plant lab will check. Plant isolated.

Follow-up Answer:

If virus confirmed, best to discard. Even segregated, tools must be sterilized; sucking insects can spread virus. Small black dots may not be virus, but color breaks in flowers are a strong indicator. Some Cymbidiums with Cym. ensifolium heritage are prone to leaf spotting. Good luck!