Question
Dear Jacob,

Our initial correspondence began just over a week ago when I asked a
question of AllExperts. You very kindly responded by the next day, and asked
me for more information. I sent you the answers to your questions the same
day I received your questions. I fear my answers got lost in the netherworld
of the internet. In any case, I am copying to info to you again, this time
including my answers, and hope that you will be able to correct my mistakes.
Thanks for your tiime and help,

Andrew Baur

On Monday, March 17, 2008, at 05:05AM, "Andrew Baur"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks Jacob,
>
>I'll answer your questions as best I can.
>
>The sundews and Nepenthes have been growing  since late December into
and throughout January. I put the VFTs under the lights in early Feb. I realize
that that is early, but because of starting seeds, I ran into a space problem
and put the traps under the lights. The VFTs' pots are about 6 inches
underneath the 40 watt "Plant and Aquarium lights. The new traps have
turned a nice red color over a few weeks.  They have put out a lot of new
growth with the new traps and leaves growing uprignt, so they are only about
2 inches above the lights. Only a few of the petioles have black edges. I have
also noticed that many of the tips of the leaves on my Drosera x California
Sunset and D. x Florida giant, along with D. graminifolia have black tips. It is
on the older leaves, but still seems premature. I have some recently started D.
filiformis "all red" which have been growing since January. Newer plants I
received in Feb. have stalled in their growth and one is on the verge of death.
>
>I have only repotted small some D. spathulata - four plants into your
peat/perlite mix, about a month ago. Three are growing well. The fourth one
was doing well, but now all of the leaf buds in the center have turned black. I
have not repotted any of the other plants.
>
>Many of the plants are growing in the same trays. They are standard green
plastic plant trays about 22 inches long, 12 inches wide, and 4 inches deep.
Growing in the trays are a mixture of the following species: VFTs, Drosera
multifida extrema, D. dichotoma "Marston's Giant", D. aliciae, D. adelae, D.
spathulata, D. scorpoides, D. nitidula x pulchella, D. capensis, D. graminifolia,
D. filiformis "all red", D. prolifera, Pinguicula moranensis, and P. primulaflora.
Most of the plants are growing 'like weeds", except for the problems noted
above and below. The Nepenthes are growing on separate trays on stones
with water up to the level of the stones.  The plants which are growing in the
trays with water in them also have duckweed growing in the water,
introduced from one of the commercial growers plants. There is also some
species of Utricularia growing in the soil of all the plants from one particular
grower. Drosera binata, D. capensis, and what appears to be D. intermedia or
D. anglica have sprouted in a number of the pots - apparently having arrived
as seeds with the ordered plants.
>
>All of the plants are watered with distilled water. The Nepenthes are growing
and producing larger and larger traps. Some are growing in living sphagnum
moss which has remained green and healthy.
>
>I live in southeastern Pennsylvania, just outside of Philadelphia.
>
>Again, many thanks for your kind assistance (and beautiful plants).
>
>Andrew
>
>
>
>On Sunday, March 16, 2008, at 07:20PM, "AllExperts"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>Hello! The expert can't answer your question.
>>
>>Your Question was:
>>
>>Greetings,
>>
>>I have VFTs and tropical sundews growing in a tray of distilled water. They
are
>>all planted in your peat/perlite soil mixtures under fluorescent lights. All
of
>>the plants, along with assorted Nepenthes and Pinguicula, are growing
>>vigorously. Recently, one of the VFT has had leaf edges that have turned
>>black. It has occurred on both new growth and older growth. The two
Drosera
>>aliciae are growing well, but the new leaves are smaller than the previous
>>ones.
>>
>>I have tested the pH of the soil and the water in the tray that the plants
are
>>growing in. The pH came out to be about 6.0 -6.5 in the soil and 7.0 for
the
>>water. Is there a way that I can make the soil more acidic? Does watering
with
>>black tea help?
>>
>>Thanks for your assistance.
>>
>>Andrew
>>
>>Because Hi Andrew,
>>
>>I was about send a detailed response, but at the last minute, I realized
that I was making too many assumptions about your growing conditions.  To
make sure my recommendations are appropriate for your situation, could you
resubmit your question with the following information?
>>
>>* How long have you been growing your plants in the manner you've
describe?
>>
>>* When did you repot your plants?
>>
>>* What is the wattage of the lights you're using and how close are they to
your plants?
>>
>>* Are all the plants in the same tray? Or do each plant has its own tray?
>>
>>* Where do you live?
>>
>>This type of information will help me identify where the potential
problems could be and how to fix them.  Thank you for your patience and
understanding.
>>
>>Good growing!
>>Jacob Farin
>>
>>Expert: Sarracenia Northwest
>>

Answer
Hi Andrew,

Thank you for the detailed response.  To answer the original question about the flytraps, it's most likely that the plants are kept too warm during the winter.  This plant needs a cool period, about 45癋 or less, at which time they will go dormant.  Growers who attempt to keep their flytraps growing throughout the winter often experience the same type of blackening on both older and new growth.  So it's not so much an issue of soil acidity as it is an issue of winter temperatures.  

There's not much you can do about it other than give it as much light as possible to replicate full sun.  When the risk of frost has passed, acclimate your plant to outdoor growing and allow it to go dormant next winter.

The same is also true for your dewthreads.  Both the Florida Giant and the California Sunset need a cooling period.  So the browning of the leaves is normal if you are attempting to keep them out of dormancy.

The Alice sundew is a true tropical plant, so it doesn't require a dormant or cooling  period.  But the shorter leaves could be an issue related to nutrition, either too much in the soil or not enough on its leaves.  If you haven't fertilized the plant and its been in the standard mix of 1 part peat moss and 1 part perlite for less than 12 months, it would be safe to recommend that you fertilize your sundew with a very weak solution of orchid fertilizer.  Use only 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, and spray the solution on your plant.  A couple squirts are all you need. Don't spray too much that it goes in the soil.    Do this once a week until larger and healthier leaves develop.

With your spoon leaf sundew, sometimes they will rot out in the middle when the clump gets very dense.  Separate the clump to avoid further rotting.  Spray with a non-metallic fungicide if necessary.

Other than that, it's just a matter of waiting for spring when sunlight levels are stronger and temperatures are naturally warmer.

Good growing!
Jacob Farin