A grower uses 2 cool white + 2 daylight T12 tubes (40W each) plus a 200W CFL (likely equivalent). Daylight tubes seem brighter. Sundews not making dew, just flowering. One cape sundew repotted after trauma — green leaves but no tentacles, not browning. Asks: bulb uniformity, dew issues, flower control, plant viability.
Daylight tubes are brighter (spectrum difference). Mix is fine; no need for uniformity.
Assumed equivalent output. Actual 200W CFLs are expensive (>$50), hot, not recommended. Equivalent-output bulbs still produce significant heat.
Improvement may take 1+ months after corrections.
Cut stalks weekly. Only reducing photoperiod to 11-12 hours stops flowering.
Green upright leaves = alive. Dead plants brown quickly. Tentacles may regenerate.
Volume 2 DVD for tropical sundew lighting: CobraPlant.com/DVD
Artificial Light Setup for Phalaenopsis: Bulbs, Distance, and Timers
Evaluating Budget LED Grow Lights for Carnivorous Plants
Compact Fluorescent Lighting for Indoor Nepenthes: Adequacy and Limitations
Understanding Light Terms: Filtered vs. Partial Sun and Fluorescent Equivalents
Choosing the Right Artificial Light for Drosera adelae: Why Standard Plant Bulbs Fail
Winter Light Requirements for Dormant Sarracenia in Unheated Storage
Matching Clamp Fixtures to CFL Wattage: Safety Check for Grow Light Setups
Low-Light Nepenthes for Reptile Terrariums: N. ampullaria and N. ventricosa
Artificial Light Spectrum for Carnivorous Plants: What We Use
Cephalotus Dormancy: Minimal Rest Needed
Pygmy Sundew Dew Production Requires Strong Light
Fluorescent Lighting Provides Adequate 'Partial Light' for Nepenthes in Terrariums
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