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Growing Squash: Summer and Winter Types for Abundant Harvests

Squash: Grow a Few Plants Well, Not Many Poorly

Most gardeners plant too many squash, then foist extras on neighbors. Instead, grow a few plants well for an ample, manageable harvest.

About This Plant

Summer squash are harvested tender and immature. Types include yellow straight/crookneck, green zucchini, scallop-shaped "patty-pan," and round softball-sized varieties. They mature fast (within 2 months) and produce all season. Prolific and reliable, but they don't store well—use promptly.

Winter squash are typically vine-type plants harvested when fully mature. They take longer (3+ months) and are best harvested when fall's cool weather sets in. They store for months in a cool basement—hence "winter" squash.

Site Selection

Choose a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. Loosen soil to 12–15 inches and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.

Planting Instructions

If space is limited, choose bush over vining varieties. Squash can be direct-sown or started indoors. Indoors: sow in individual pots 3–4 weeks before last frost. Outdoors: wait until all frost danger passes, set transplants 18–36 inches apart at container depth. Direct-sow: 1 inch deep, 2–4 seeds per foot. Winter squash often grow on long vines (some bush types available). Vining types: low mounds 6 feet apart, 2–3 plants per hill.

Care

Thin to 1 plant per 18–24 inches, or 2–3 best plants per hill, when first true leaves appear. At five leaves, mulch to eliminate weeds and retain moisture. Provide ~1 inch water weekly. Periodically pinch off fuzzy winter squash vine ends after a few fruits form. Contact your extension office for cucumber beetle and squash vine borer controls.

Harvesting

Summer squash develop rapidly after pollination. Harvest daily or every other day. Small and tender = best flavor. Pick elongated types at ≤2 inches diameter, 6–8 inches long. Harvest patty-pan at 3–4 inches diameter.

Winter squash: First sign is deep skin color. Press fingernail into skin—if it resists puncture, it's ripe. Cut from vine with sharp knife/pruners, leaving a stem piece attached (if stem breaks off fruit, rot can enter).

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