Dormant Sodding in Fall/Winter: Risks and Best Practices

In the Southeast, trees and ornamentals are routinely transplanted dormant (late fall/early winter) because root balls are deep enough for continued root growth in cool soils. For turfgrass sod, where roots originate at the surface, dormant sodding is riskier. Surface soil temps mimic air temps – if air freezes, new sod roots can freeze.

Increased winter injury observed on zoysiagrass and centipedegrass vs. bermudagrass sodded late. Yet dormant sodding of warm-season grasses isn't uncommon.

Keys to Success with Dormant Sodding

• Root zone preparation is critical. Best time for soil test (pH, nutrients). Incorporate lime (raise pH) or sulfur (lower pH) during prep. Correct P and K deficiencies before establishment.
• Little nitrogen needed when sodding dormant grass – soluble nitrogen is mobile but dormant roots can't acquire it. First N application in spring when 4-inch soil temps consistently 65°F and rising.
• P and K research is inconsistent: some studies show decreased winterkill/disease with added P/K; others show no difference in cold hardiness or pathogen resistance.

See Sodding Dormant Grass for more details.