Plums are ideal for beginner fruit growers—widely adapted, compact, and lower-maintenance than most fruit trees. Delicious fruit and ornamental beauty in one.
Plums are stone fruits, related to peaches and nectarines.
Planting
- Plant multiple types—many need cross-pollination, though some are self-fertile.
- Match type to location: European (hardy, most US regions), Japanese (where peaches thrive), Damson, and American hybrids (for regions where European/Japanese fail).
- Well-drained, moderately fertile soil, full sun. Avoid frost-prone low areas.
- Sheltered, south/west-facing spot out of wind helps fruit set.
- Container-grown: remove pot, cut circling roots (lay root ball on side, shear through).
- Grafted: keep graft union 1 inch above soil line.
- Dig hole deeper/wider than roots. Set on central mound. Spread roots without excessive bending.
- Standard: 20–25 ft apart. Dwarf: 15–20 ft.
Care
- Thin to prevent branch breakage. If branches break, prune to undamaged wood at natural fork—avoid stubs.
- Water young trees heavily weekly first season. Then regularly: deep water at soil line, let dry (not completely), repeat.
- Water through mid-October for winter moisture reserves.
- No fertilizer until crop sets.
- Established: regular fertilizing year-round. Good fruit set: 1 lb calcium nitrate or 1.5 lb 10-10-10 per tree. Reduce nitrogen fall/winter to avoid off-season growth.
- Fall: rake all debris and fallen fruit.
- Prune early spring (young) or mid-summer (established) to avoid infection. Never fall/winter—risk injury/infection.
- Pest issues? Consult local extension for spray program.
- Winter protection: tree wrap/guard on lower trunk, especially young trees.
- Monitor lower bark/branches for mouse/rabbit damage; install guards or chicken wire if needed.
Pruning: Japanese Plum
- Open center shape. Year 1 summer: cut vigorous top shoots by 2–3 buds. After ~1 month, when 3 wide-angled branches appear, remove others. Year 2 early summer: cut center branches to stubs, remove shoots below mains. Year 3+: remove center shoots.
- Heavy pruning maintains shape and fruit quality. Thin fruit to 3–4 inches apart per branch.
Pruning: European Plum
- Central leader: central trunk, branches spiral every 5–8 inches, no branch directly above another. Train from early summer year 1: remove shoots within 18" of ground. Christmas tree shape.
- Less fruit thinning needed (lighter crops). Space fruit ~2 inches apart.
- Prune to keep open for pest/disease control. Spring mulch for weeds, remove late fall. Light cultivation late spring eliminates soil pests.
See our spring pruning guide for more tips.
Pests and Diseases
- Silver leaf disease
- Honey fungus
- Bacterial canker
- Pocket plum
- Japanese beetles
- Plum aphids
- Plum moth
Contact local cooperative extension for spray program.
Harvest and Storage
- Best flavor: tree-ripened. Ripe = gentle finger pressure yields soft skin.
- Easy release with slight twist.
- Poor storage—eat or preserve promptly. Or pick slightly firm, ripen in cool place.
- Best storage: refrigerator at 31–32°F, 90–95% humidity = 2–4 weeks.
- Preserve as jams/jellies, frozen, or dried (prunes).
Recommended Varieties
- Japanese: 'Satsuma' – large, dark-red, sweet. Fresh eating and canning.
- European: 'Stanley' – great for East/Northwest. Self-fertile. Medium-large. Cooking, canning, fresh.
- American hybrids: 'Alderman', 'Superior', 'Underwood' – Japanese taste + European hardiness. Regional extremes.
Recipes
- Deep-Dish Plum Pie
- Indian Summer Applesauce
- Orchard Fruit Grunt
