Peonies: Planting and Growing These Long-Lived Spring Showstoppers

Taken in my garden, late spring 2007.

Michele Rose

Peonies are outrageously beautiful in spring bloom, with lush foliage all summer. Once properly planted and established, they require little maintenance—but they resent transplanting.

These perennials return every spring to take your breath away. Plants may outlive you—some thrive for 100+ years.

The fattest and most scrumptious of all flowers, a rare fusion of fluff and majesty, the peony is now coming into bloom.
–Henry Mitchell (1923–93)

Hardy to Zone 3, growing well to Zones 7–8. Success rules: full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies need cold winters for bud formation.

They make fine sentinels along walkways and lovely low hedges. After bloom, their bushy clumps of glossy green leaves last all summer, turning purplish-gold in fall—stately as any shrub. In mixed borders, they pair beautifully with columbines, baptisias, veronicas, irises, and roses. Try white peonies with yellow irises and forget-me-nots; pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.

Planting Peonies for Generations of Blooms

• Deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil. Neutral pH.
• Amend planting hole with organic matter. Heavy or sandy soil? Enrich with compost. Incorporate ~1 cup bonemeal. Firm soil well.
• Choose location wisely—peonies hate disturbance. Shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees/shrubs (they compete for food/moisture). Space 3–4 ft for air circulation.
• Full sun is best; half-day sun works but reduces blooms.
• Usually sold as bare-root tubers with 3–5 eyes (divisions of 3–4 year plants).
• Plant in fall: Late September–October in most areas, later in the South. (This is also the only time to move established plants.)
• Plant before first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies lag ~1 year behind fall-planted.
• Dig a generous hole: ~2 ft deep and wide in well-drained soil. Amend with compost; add 1 cup bonemeal. Firm well.
• Set root with eyes up on firmed soil, just 2 inches below surface. (South: early bloomers, 1 inch deep, some shade.)
• Backfill carefully—don't let soil settle deeper than 2 inches over eyes.
• Water thoroughly.

Critical Tip: Don't plant too deep! In most areas, eyes should be no deeper than 1½–2 inches below soil line!

Care: Benign Neglect Works Best

Like children, young peonies take years to establish, bloom, and grow. They thrive on benign neglect—unlike most perennials, they don't need digging/dividing.

• Spare the fertilizer. Work soil well pre-plant with a little fertilizer; that's enough.
• If soil is poor, fertilize (bonemeal, compost, well-rotted manure) in early summer after blooming and deadheading. No more than every few years.
• Support stems. Their weakness: stems sometimes can't hold gigantic blossoms. Use three-legged metal peony rings.
• Deadhead promptly as flowers fade, cutting to a strong leaf. Cut foliage to ground in fall to prevent overwintering disease.
• Don't smother with mulch. In severe cold, first winter only: mulch VERY loosely with pine needles/shredded bark. Remove in spring.

Pests and Diseases

Generally very hardy. Issues: Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetles, nematodes.

Ants on buds? They're eating nectar and attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray them—they're helping!

Peonies are also deer-resistant.

Recommended Varieties for Succession Bloom

Plan for mid-May to early June display:

• 'Early Scout' – Very early, red single.
• 'Firelight' – Very early, pale-pink single.
• 'Karl Rosenfield' – Midseason, large crimson double.
• 'Norma Volz' – Midseason, large white fully double.
• 'Elsa Sass' – Late-season, pure white camellia-like double.

Wit & Wisdom

Had I but four square feet of ground at my disposal, I would plant a peony in the corner and proceed to worship. –Alice Harding, The Book of the Peony

Tip: Peonies make superb cut flowers, lasting 1+ week. Cut long stems when buds are still fairly tight.