Complete Guide to Planting and Growing Pear Trees

Our fruit trees ship dormant and bare-root. On arrival, keep roots from drying out. Check packing material—it should be damp, not soggy. Moisten if dry and drain excess.

Planting Timeline

Plant within a week. For short delays, store in cool, dark place in original packing, kept damp. For longer delays, heel in: dig shallow trench, spread roots, cover with soil, water well, mulch with straw or leaf mold.

Site Selection and Spacing

Choose fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.5–6.8) with full sun. Test soil via your county USDA Extension. Space trees 20+ feet apart for desired orchard openness. Mature canopy spread: 10–20 feet.

Cross-Pollination

Plant more than one variety for good cross-pollination and best fruiting.

Planting Procedure

Soak roots 1 hour before planting. Dig wide holes—twice root span in unimproved soil. Scar hole sides/bottom. Form soil cone, spread roots over it, trim damaged roots. Set tree so graft union sits 2–3 inches above final soil level. In windy sites, tilt slightly into prevailing wind.

Amend backfill with compost/aged manure in sandy or clay soils. Water halfway through backfilling, finish, tamp, build water ring, water again.

Mulching

Apply 4-inch organic mulch (straw, salt hay, wood chips, sawdust). Keep mulch inches from trunk. Add nitrogen if using wood chips/sawdust.

Watering

Consistent moisture is critical for survival. Provide 1 inch (5–8 gallons) weekly. Drip irrigation ideal; otherwise deep soak weekly when rain is insufficient. Check soil at 1-inch depth during drought. Mulch to drip line for first few years.

Fertilizing

Feed young trees in late winter/early spring while dormant with 10-10-10 at 1 pound per tree.

Training, Pruning, and Winter Protection

Pear trees are among the easiest fruit trees to grow. Proper pruning yields healthier, longer-lived, more productive trees. Read Stella Otto's The BackYard Orchardist for detailed guidance.