Complete Guide to Planting and Growing Peach Trees

Our fruit trees ship dormant and bare-root. The most critical step on arrival: keep roots from drying out. Check packing material around roots—it should feel damp, not soggy. If dry, moisten and drain excess water.

Planting Timeline

Plant bare-root trees as soon as possible, certainly within a week. For short delays (a couple days), store in a cool, dark place (garage/basement) in original packing, keeping it damp. If planting must wait longer than a week, heel in temporarily: dig a shallow trench, spread roots, cover well with soil, water thoroughly, and mulch with straw or leaf mold to keep roots cool and moist.

Site Selection and Spacing

Choose fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 6.5–6.8 ideal) with full sun. Test soil through your county USDA Cooperative Extension Service. Space semi-dwarf trees 15–20 feet apart (or more for an open orchard feel). Mature canopy spread: 10–15 feet.

Planting Procedure

Soak roots for an hour before planting. Dig holes wide enough for roots without bending—in unimproved soil, make holes twice the root span diameter. Scar hole sides and bottom to eliminate glazing. Form a soil cone in the center. Spread roots over the cone, trimming broken roots. Position tree so the graft union (swollen bump near trunk base) sits 2–3 inches above soil after backfilling and watering. In windy sites, tilt tree slightly (1 inch beyond vertical) into prevailing wind.

Backfill with native soil amended with compost or aged manure if soil is very sandy or heavy clay—this improves both drainage and moisture retention. Even in good soil, a few shovels of organic matter helps. Water halfway through backfilling to settle soil and eliminate air pockets. Finish backfilling, tamp gently, build a water-retaining ring around the hole, and water again.

Mulching

Apply 4-inch organic mulch (straw, salt hay, wood chips, sawdust) to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Keep mulch a few inches from trunk to prevent decay and rodent habitat. Add supplemental nitrogen if using wood chips or sawdust.

Watering

Consistent moisture is the single most important factor for survival. Provide at least 1 inch (5–8 gallons) per week. Drip irrigation is ideal; otherwise, deep soak weekly when rainfall is insufficient. Check soil at 1-inch depth during drought—if dry, water. Maintain mulch to drip line for first few years to minimize competition.

Fertilizing

Feed young trees in late winter/early spring while dormant. Use balanced 10-10-10 at 1 pound per tree.

Thinning Fruit

Trees bear fruit in 3–4 years. For larger, tastier peaches, thin fruit 4–6 weeks after bloom to 6–8 inch spacing.

Training, Pruning, and Winter Protection

Proper pruning yields healthier, longer-lived, more productive trees. We highly recommend Stella Otto's The BackYard Orchardist for in-depth guidance. For winter protection, paint trunks with white latex paint to prevent sunscald. Pull mulch back 12+ inches from trunk base to deter rodents.