DIY Multitasking Outdoor Table with Built-In Planters

Dual-Use Table

This generously proportioned, hardworking table seats four adults while showcasing aquatic plants—three potted papyrus and a floating colony of water lettuce—in stainless steel restaurant pans. For entertaining, swap the pans to serve snacks and drinks chilled on ice. A true conversation piece that blends furniture and garden feature.

Time: 2 days
Cost: $$$
Skill: Level 4

How to Build a Multitasking Table

Tools You'll Need

• Sawhorses
• Tape measure
• Angle or combination square
• Power miter saw
• Table saw or portable circular saw
• Handsaw
• Power drill and standard drill bits
• No. 30 star-drive bit (for GRK screws)
• Assorted clamps
• ½-inch socket wrench or nut driver (for lag screws)
• No. 2 Phillips screwdriver
• No. 2 square-drive bit
• 1 pair Deck-Mate spacing tools
• Portable jigsaw
• Medium-grit sanding block
• Paintbrush

Materials (All lumber: Western red cedar)

• 1 piece 6×6 cedar, 8 ft long (part A)
• 2 pieces 2×10 cedar, 10 ft long (parts B, C)
• 4 pieces 2×4 cedar, 8 ft long (parts D, E, F)
• 6 pieces 1×4 cedar, 8 ft long (parts G, H, J, K)
• Exterior-grade wood glue
• GRK stainless-steel RSS screws, 5/16×3 in.
• Galvanized deck screws, No. 8×2½ in.
• Stainless-steel deck screws, No. 8×1⅝ in.
• Full-pan stainless-steel restaurant pan, 4 in. deep
• Three 1/6-pan stainless-steel restaurant pans, 6 in. deep
• 1 quart clear exterior penetrating wood sealer
• Semitransparent or solid-color exterior stain (optional)

Cuts (in inches)

• 4 legs (A): 5½×5½×16
• 2 side rails (B): 1½×9¼×74
• 2 end rails (C): 1½×9¼×27
• 2 rail cleats (D): 1½×3½×63
• 2 subframe rails (E): 1½×3½×71
• 3 subframe blocks (F): 1½×3½×4
• 12 bench slats (G): ¾×3½×30
• 8 slat blocks (H): ¾×3½×3
• 5 short slats (J): ¾×3½×15½
• 3 medium slats (K): ¾×3½×21½

Step 1: Cut and Notch Legs

Cut the 6×6 cedar to length for the four legs (A), ensuring they are square and consistent. Notch each leg with a table saw or circular saw where it will fit inside the frame rails; finish cuts with a handsaw.

Step 2: Assemble Frame

Cut 2×10 cedar for side and end rails (B, C). Drill holes for GRK or lag screws, glue and clamp corners, then drive GRK screws through rails into the upper faces of the legs.

Step 3: Attach Rail Cleats

Cut 2×4 cedar for rail cleats (D). Use 2½-inch deck screws to attach them to the inside faces of the side rails, flush at the top edges.

Step 4: Build and Install Subframe

Glue and screw rails and blocks (E, F) together, then fit and screw the assembly inside the main bench frame. Position subframe for correct cutout spacing: allow 5½ inches for the channel with three narrow cutouts and 11⅝ inches for the single wide cutout; adjust if your pans differ.

Step 5: Install Tabletop Slats

Cut 1×4 cedar for full-length slats (G) and partial-length slats (H, J, K). Using 20 slats with 3/16-inch gaps, start at the ends and fit full and partial slats as shown. Drill 3/16-inch holes and attach with 1⅝-inch stainless-steel deck screws. Use one screw per small slat block (H) with a dab of glue to prevent shifting. Follow the pattern to leave openings for the pans.

Step 6: Enlarge Cutouts

After slats are attached, use a jigsaw to enlarge the cutouts for the pans. If desired, route with a flush-trim bit (requires additional guide cleats on slat undersides).

Step 7: Sand and Finish

Sand the table thoroughly. Finish with a clear exterior sealer. Some graying will occur over time; for more color consistency, apply semitransparent or solid-color exterior stain. Paint is not recommended due to frequent maintenance needs.