Simple Lawn Care: Prevent Summer Problems Before They Start

Long, hot summers torture lawns. Scorching days and poor maintenance turn grass brown and weak, inviting weeds, insects, and disease. Prevention beats cure.

"Homeowners treat symptoms from a month ago," says Doug Fender, Turfgrass Resource Center director. "They see damage, treat it, but recovery takes another month. They don't think about prevention."

A vigorous, thick lawn is the best defense — it naturally wards off weeds, insects, and diseases better than any product.

Early Season Care

• Aerate and fertilize before grass takes off (May–June). Cool-season: no more fertilizing until fall. Warm-season: monthly nitrogen through growing season.
• Sharpen mower blade in spring for clean cuts (prevents disease). Cut only 1/3 blade. Raise height 25–50% as temps rise. Cool-season: no lower than 2–2.5 inches. Warm-season: 0.75–1.5 inches above 80°F.
• Water uniformly, deeply, infrequently in early morning. 1 inch/week total (rain + irrigation). Test uniformity with tuna cans. Screwdriver test: easy push = good moisture; resistance = water deeper.

Mid-Season Care

Cool-season grasses may go dormant (brown) in hot, dry climates — not bad unless prolonged drought. They recover when weather cools.

To keep green: 1 inch/week water. Worst approach: let dormancy cycle (water to green up, then let go dormant again).

Let grass grow longer in heat — extra shade cools roots, reduces evaporation. No fertilizing or weed killers now.

Late Season Care

North: early-mid fall best for chemical weed control — weeds store food for winter, absorb chemicals readily.

Mow slightly shorter in fall for quicker spring drying, but not below recommended range.

North: fertilize anytime in fall. Also good time to aerate for better water/air penetration.

Close Observation

Despite prevention, problems arise:

Weeds: Obvious weeds = problem. Had weeds last year? Spray herbicide late April–May. No broad summer herbicide — heat-stressed lawn. Hand-pull or spot-treat. Soap herbicides less toxic.

Irregular brown patches: Grass pulls up easily = grubs (beetle larvae eating roots). Check soil for white larvae. Spike soil 2 inches deep in early fall or use grub insecticides.

Moss: Compacted, shaded, acidic, poorly drained soil. Rake out or apply moss-killer. Reseed bare spots in fall or sod in spring/fall.

Strange patterns/spots: Hard to diagnose (disease, insect, weed, dog). Take 2x2-inch plug to nursery or extension service. Note patterns/colors.

Should You Seed, Sod, or Both?

Should You Seed, Sod or Both?