Not all algae are the same. Short, fuzzy algae on rocks and plants is generally beneficial attached algae. Long, stringy "hair algae" is tougher to control. Most algae-eating fish and snails ignore hair algae. For attached algae, a plecostomus may help, but they die below 50°F. Rosy barbs (tropical) are one of the few fish that consume hair algae.
Finding half your fish missing, with one partially eaten, strongly suggests a predator. Herons usually swallow fish whole. In San Jose, raccoons, cats, or other mammals are probable culprits. Netting the pond is the most reliable defense.
A 200-gallon pond is far too small for koi, which can reach 3 feet and require over 1,000 gallons. Overcrowding degrades water quality and fuels algae growth. Consider rehoming koi to a larger pond and keeping only small, suitable species like mosquito fish, rosy red minnows, or goldfish.
Long-term algae control relies on balance: abundant aquatic plants to compete for nutrients and provide shade, minimal fish stocking, efficient filtration, healthy beneficial bacteria colonies, and possibly barley straw. Visit this algae resource for detailed guidance.
Moving Feeder Goldfish Indoors for Winter: Tropical Tank Risks
Copper Fountain & Algae: Is the Metal the Problem?
Green Bubbles on 1,500-Gal Pond: Overstocked, Add Filtration & Plants
Mass Death of Large Goldfish in New Pond: Diagnosis Checklist
Tadpole Deaths in Small Ponds: Predators and Fish Options
Koi Flashing and Ulcer: Parasite Treatment Protocol
Overwintering Pond Goldfish: When to Bring Them Inside
Pond Volume & Pump Size Calculator
Pond Size Check: 9×4 ft, Variable Depth, 13 Fish
Recurring Red Rash on Koi in Overstocked Tank: Parasites, Bacteria, or Stress?
Recurring Ulcers in 11,000-Gal Pond: Bacterial Infection from Slime Coat Failure
Controlling Algae in a Sunny Pond: Pumps, Plants, and Realistic Expectations
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