Question
Hi Stephen,
I am also an expert on AllExperst in Gardening,bulbs,perennial snd garden design.
I have a customer that has about 1 acre of gardens.
Flower beds,roses,evergreens,shrubs,bulbs,etc. It is a cottage garden style and I am alsmost near completion on a the reconstruction that has taken me nearly 3 years to do.Bed by bed.
Anyway,I am also a bulb freak.I plants hundreds every year..
This particular customer has a sort of rural setting but still in city limits.They are on a cozy little cul de sac. Last year I had trouble with moles in my Tulip bulbs but nothing worse tahn a few eaten bulbs and some tunnels.
This year is another story however. We have an extremely active bunh of voles and or moles.They are not just limited to bulbs.They are now in every bed.I have plastic weed barrier and mulch on top of that.They are going under the beds and pushing up the soil everywhere.I was pissed about the bulbs but now it is extremely bad everywhere you look. I have tried poisonuous mole pellets and spray,but they just seem to keep on digging.I did find a dead vole beside a Tulip bulb where I had put the pellets beside in the tunnel.The bad thing was,the Tulip bulbs were eaten as well. Boy did I feel stupid. Thinking that the pellets would kill it instantly before it ate the Tulip.No logic used on that one huh?I realized aftreward that was not the way to go.

I am no longer concerned with the bulbs however,just the plastic weed barrier I put down.I am thinking that they may cause it to come up and then I will be back to square one...fighting the weeds every day.

I saw these windmill looking things at Gardeners Supply that are supposed to send noises into the tunnels and drive them away,but I would have to have about 50 of them and they are $24.95 each!

Can you think of anything at all to help me.I am desperate.  

Answer
Dear Ms. Walker,

Here is my information on moles. However, I think it would be beneficial for you to give me a call 402-472-8961  Central time 8:30-5:00 or e-mail me directly [email protected]  so we can correspond on the specifics to your question.  Given the kind of soil activity you are referring to it sounds like pocket gophers.  Remember, pocket gophers eat vegetation. Moles eat worms and bugs. A mole mound looks round. A pocket gopher mound looks like a fan and tend to be much larger 12 inches across.

Getting rid of moles

Before anything make sure the problem you are complaining of is moles and not pocket gophers or voles. If the latter two visit http://wildlifedamage.unl.edu  and click on the wildlife publications link for the appropriate species. Moles eat insects and worms. Voles eat plants and will work above and below ground. Pocket gophers eat plants and make numerous boils on the surface of the ground and live primarily in the Midwest to the west of N. America. Moles are twice the size of mice and rarely if ever come to the surface. Voles are the size of mice. Voles will use a tunnel dug by a mole. Make sure you know what the problem is. By the way, if you have moles you don't have many of them. On average, you will have 3 moles per acre. But remember they can dig 100 feet per day depending on soil conditions.
First, don't bother with chewing gum, thumpers, sonic devices mothballs etc. There is little to no concrete evidence that they work. Gas bombs tend not to work because the tunnels are too long and the moles are too fast. It is like trying to push smoke through a 30 foot straw, very hard (mole tunnel networks are much larger than 30 feet). People who think they work often don't know that during dry periods moles move deep into the soil so they won't provide visible damage until rain or watering of the lawn. If you aren't sure if the tunnels are still being used, roll down the tunnels and wait to see if they reappear. The piles of dirt are indicative of deep tunnels as opposed to surface tunnels. You need to trap these with scissor traps or No-mole traps next spring after the ground softens. Surface tunnels can be trapped with harpoon, scissor, Nash traps or Nomol. Traps can be obtained at  various vendors. Again you can find them at http://wildlifedamage.unl.edu click on product vendors. Some people suggest that pets be used to control moles, I have my doubts. Certainly cats and dogs kill some but I question they would ever be efficient enough to satisfy the landowner.
There is a new pesticide on the market called Kaput but there are questions concerning its efficacy. By that it is meant that some would like to see dead moles autopsied to determine if they were killed by the poison. The only registered repellent on the market is called Mole-Med It essentially uses Castor bean oil to allegedly drive the mole away. The evidence for this product is also debated.  I don't know if castor oil kills worms which are the primary food source for moles. There is no scientific evidence that any plant, chewing gum or thumping device will keep moles away.  Talpirid by Bell Labs is another story. You will most likely need a pesticide applicators license to use but early research seems promising.

Nevertheless, I am a firm believer in trapping.  2. Use proper equipment such as harpoon, Nash or scissors traps or Nomol?traps. Traps cause minimal damage to your lawn and certainly not as much as a mole will. Nevertheless if you are worried about the traps damaging your lawn use harpoon traps. All the damage they do is poke holes into the grass. Nomol traps are the safest if you worry about pets etc. Third, get proper training, visit http://wildlifedamage.unl.edu  and click publications.   Many people mistakenly think that trapping is not effective because they tried it and it didn't work. What those cynics need to realize is that the trap is only as good as the trapper who uses it. Training and proper instruction is critical to success. Learn mole biology. The primary diet for moles is NOT grubs (although moles eat them, grubs are not their primary food. Their primary diet is earthworms. So even if you get rid of grubs you may still have moles who are seeking worms. Can removal of grubs work? Yes if you don't have enough worms to justify the mole's digging. However, I have heard that grubs are becoming resistant to some of the pesticides and/or that homeowners are not following the directions of the poison.  You can see my bias against unnecessary poisons. If you choose to use poisons contact your local garden supply. They should know what is effective in your area. The beauty of trapping is that it works, is safe and is poison free. As for prevention, the only thing guaranteed to work is to pave your lawn which is certainly not cost effective or environmentally sound. Finally, make sure trapping is legal in your state. Unfortunately, states like Washington and Massachusetts have listened to animal rights protest industry groups and banned mole trapping through the ballot box.


Disclaimer: As with any activity, remember that animal damage control comes with its own risks and problems which can include but are not limited to legalities, health threats, and personal liabilities. Be sure to follow all state laws governing wildlife and make sure you have a thorough understanding on how to resolve the animal damage complaint. My advice is only as good as your understanding of me and my understanding of your situation. If you have any questions be sure to write back.