Question
I am in the lower Northeast (PA).  I am not sure of the type of grass.  There used to be 2 evergreen trees on the front lawn.  The lawn gets very wet when it rains and stays mushy for a couple of days.  There are brown patched on the lawn and when i rake the grass and dirt just pull up almost like the grass can't root.  Someone told me it was because of the old evergreen trees (sap).  Is that true and how do I test for pH levels?

Answer
Hi K Didonato,

>>"...stays mushy ...?"

Without a visible inspection of the object of your question/problem please realize the limitations here in providing a precise diagnosis and specifics for your situation.
Thank You for the information you have provided so far.
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Reduce watering efforts, and cease all fertilizing actions until your lawn appearance problems improve.

A lawn that stays soggy after rains is likely to have a variety of problems.
Improving the soil and its drainage capacity should become a priority.

Because of the  poor drainage scenario, the turf-grass has very likely acquired a FUNGUS DISEASE due to the sustained moist conditions.  A closer examination of the grass leaves should verify the presence of a fungal growth.

Turf grass FUNGUS outbreaks are relatively common and often fast spreading.
Work fast to avoid losing large areas infected with the phytopathogen.

Visit this website and link to "Lawns" for IMAGES of many turf grass diseases and their diagnosis:

http://plantpathology.tamu.edu/Texlab/index.htm

BROWN-PATCH DISEASE Website: http://plantpath.unl.edu/peartree/homer/disease.skp/Hort/Turf/Tubrnpt.html
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If old evergreen trees and shrubs have been allowed to drop their leaves to the ground for many years, this can indeed make the soil very acid.  Most grasses like the soil a little bit acidic, but anything less than pH 6.8 is probably too acidic.  At lawn and garden centers you can purchase an inexpensive easy to use soil-testing kit to test the pH and other important parameters.

However, adjusting the drainage factor may solve your problems and should be a priority BEFORE taking actions to adjust the pH.  With better drainage, the pH soil chemistry may correct itstelf.

You can obtain better drainage in several ways.  Adding 5-10% sand to the top-soil is the least costly way. This does nothing for soil fertility, but should improve drainage especially where the soil has high clay content.

Aerating the top-soil and root-zone can be done with rented equipment or by a service company.  This is only a temporary remedy but if done on a regular basis can promote better drainage over the years.

Adding humus, manures, compost and peat will improve drainage; adding these soil amendments does improve the tilth, friability and also the fertility of the top-soil as  they also help a poor drainage condition. You cannot add too much of these soil-improving amendments.

You may consider some 'earth-moving' landscaping changes.  With this, you can create berms and low places where excess water will collect after rains.  With the water pooled, you can then manage ways to direct it to utility drainage systems.

Installing drainage pipe-works would be the most efficient way to improve drainage.
 This may consist of buried perforated PVC pipes (such as would be used to install septic-tank laterals) wrapped in weed-barrier and gravel. The weed-barrier treatment keep the pipe-works from becoming root-clogged.  The excess water should drain into these conduits which you can direct to water effluent systems or cisterns, etc.  Just installing several 4-6 inch diameter PVC pipes perpendicularly into the ground where settled water can seep into their cylindrical volumes can sometimes solve the problem provided the pipes can perk from their open-ends several feet deep in the ground. More complicated systems can involve pump-works to move water to city drainage systems, etc.  Write back for more details if you want to consider these types of remedies for the soggy-soil.

If your grass-type is more than 12-15 years old, consider 'up-grading' to one of the new drought and disease resistant 'super-hybrid' grass cultivars now available.  Your old grass-type may lack resistance to a fungal agent and chronic lawn appearance problems may continue with the old stock grass types.

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In summary,....
If you can provide better drainage, increased aeration-ventilation and lots of sun-light with reduced nitrate in the top-soil, fungus diseases should a thing of the past.

Up-grading to an improved disease resistant patented hybrid grass-type may be indicated if lawn appearance problems persist.
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I Hope this has answered your question(s)!

Visit my Lawn & Gardens webpage for more Lawn and Garden Tips, Facts and Links:
http://hometown.aol.com/eilatlog/lawnol.html

Your Questions and Comments are welcome at ALLEXPERTS.com

___ Jim Gibbs,
    Microbiologist/Botanist