Question
Hi
I just cut a lot of trees because the area was shadey and I could not grow because the sun was not getting to the Lawn. I have to water a lot. Its going to be sunny . The area code is 03054 which is Southern NH. The areas is 200ft by 200ft.How much Lime do I use? I love Scoots because the lawn gets very green. I will use all Scotts products ezcept the lime as they dont have it. Your help will be appreciated enormously. As i only want to do this once.
Ron Mailhiot-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I am building a new Lawn from Scratch. Could you tell me the right road to go? Loam is down and i need to rake. Whats next step? Really would like a nice green lawn and always use Scotts products. Whats the right seed so I dont have to seed every year?
         Ron
Answer -
Sure I can help..

Where you are located (zip code, or gardening zone ?) and how is your sun/shade conditions ? Large mature trees around the lawn ? Full sun ? Please describe these conditions.

I will then be able to give you a good answer.

Thanks/ Regards

Answer
For 200 x 200 feet lawn in sun, use a good mixture of kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass. Typically this would be a "sunny lawn" mixture. Seeding rate: 4  lbs./1,000 sq. feet (e.g. use 160 lbs).

Preparre soil by loosing it with a tiller or alternatively a rake. It does not have to be tilled deeply, just surface loosened. Spread grass seeds evenly (a drop spreader is a good tool). Spread a starter fertilizer (scott's turfbuilder starter fertilizer) and water in well. Use back of rake to go over lawn and tamp down to ensure good soil/seed contact.

Keep seedbed damp at all times until germination (14-28 days). This can be done by watering daily 2 times for 10-15 minutes during each watering. You can also cover the lawn with straw to help with evaporation after seeding. use about 1 bale per 1000 sq feet (40 bales). This is not required, but can help improve odds.

Once grass germinates (sprouts) gradually increase to an infrequent but deep watering pattern, such as once weekly for 2 hours (this is the preferred for a mature lawn). Infrequent and deep is best for an established lawn whereas seeds require a consistently damp soil which is why you start out watering frequently and shallowly (twice daily for 15 minutes). The transition from frequent/shallow to infrequently/deep should be done over a period of 3-4 weeks by gradually increasing time between watering and the amount you apply. Once the lawn is mature (this fall) do not get tempted to water daily. Water infrequently and deeply. However, this first summer it is ok to water a couple of times per week until grass matures. However, do not just sprinkle it. Water deeply (except during seed establishment as explained).

For your area, fertilize in late may, early september and mid/late october. Do not fertilize during hot summer months (never, ever !!). Do not use scott's fertilizer w/summerguard in summer. This is a vaste of money and does more harm than good. I would like to state this very clearly again: despite advice to the contrary DO NOT use scott's turfbuilder with summerguard (insecticides) in summer. Fertilizing a NH lawn in summer and using systemic pesticides on regular basis is NOT recommended. I can not stress this enough.


Use Scott's turfbuilder in may and september and a scott's turfbuilder winterizer in late october. You can use scott's turfbuilder 2+2 (broadleaf weed control .. the one with the dandelion on the package) in may or september if you have problems with broadleaf weeds. If so, use it instead of one the regular turfbuilder applications.

I normally recommend that you skip the mid april application of scott's turfbuilder w/halts (crabgrass preventer) but if you have had a bad infestation of crabgrass you can apply it next year in april. Crabgrass is a light green annual grass which dies in winter but which set seeds in summer/fall. The crabgrass preventer will prevent weed seeds from germinating in spring. It must be put down before soil temperatures go up (e.g. by mid april). Only use this if you have had a bad problem with crabgrass one year.. otherwise skip. Applying fertilizer too early in spring is not recommended and may not be needed if you did not have a proven case of bad crabgrass infestation. Therefore, do not apply by habit; only if you had bad crabgrass problems last season.
Note: NEVER apply crabgrass preventer when sowing grass seeds (will kill these, too).



Always apply fertilizers to DRY lawns and water in immediately with atleast 1" of water (1 hour of watering). ONly exception is Scott's Turfbuilder 2+2 (broadleaf weed control) which should be applied to a WET lawn and allowed to stay on the leaves for 48 hours (do not apply when rain is anticipated). Then this should be watered in also. Always refer to back of bags (lable) for when to apply. Generally apply at temperatures between 50F and 80F.

Never apply fertilizer in summer. I don't care what Scott's company and others say. A NH lawn should not be fertilized in summer (never, ever !!)

Finally, mow your lawn frequently and mow high. Try to mow the lawn 2.5-3.5" (meassured after a cutting) and recycle clippings to the lawn using the mulching setting.

If you have not planted your lawn yet, this is the time to have a soil test taken. A soil test will give you a soil pH. If soil pH is BELOW 6.0 then lime. Otherwise DO NOT LIME. Too much lime when it is not needed is bad for the lawn. Never lime a lawn automatically by habit. Lime only against a soil test if soil pH is BELOW 6.0.

You can get your soil tested for a nominel fee at your local county extension office (University of New Hampshire)

http://extension.unh.edu/News/TestSoil.htm

Again, do not lime unless a soil test report states that pH is below 6.0. If it is below 6.0 the soil test report will give you recommendations with respect to how much lime to use. I like to lime in fall, if I lime.

E.g. mow frequently and mow high
fertilize in spring and fall never in summer
water infrequently and deeply
apply fertilizer w/broadleaf weed control if you have to.

Following above will give you a great lawn

when establishing lawns:
- always keep seed bed slightly damp until germination (e.g. water frequently and shallowly)
- ensure good soil/seed contact by tilling soil first and firming down after seeding with back of rake
- cover with straw if possible to keep evaporation to a minimum
- gradually transition to a deep watering pattern after new grass has sprouted.

Good luck

-- Kenneth