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calamondin gratfting


Question
hi, i have several calamondin plants that i have had for three years.  i would like to try grafting or use seeds to grow seedlings.  what is the proper way to graft or try growing from seeds?  thanks in advance!  

Answer
I would recommend cuttings or seeds rather than grafting. Grafting is a very time consuming process that has a low success rate. Many breeders graft as a means to create new hybrids from two different varieties of a particular species. They graft hundreds of plants in order to get a handful of successful offspring.

If you are intent on grafting, attached is a website that details the process.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag396.html

Propagation from cuttings is a very easy procedure. Simply cut a tender shoot that is at least six inches long. Remove the lower sets of leaves. Dip the cutting in a rooting compound. You can purchase this product at any garden center. Stick the cutting one inch into a good potting mix. Be sure to thoroughly wet the soil prior to planting.

Finally, cover the pot with a clear piece of lightweight plastic. Place the pot in indirect sunlight on an east window seal or under fluorescent lighting. After two weeks, check to see if the plant has rooted by slightly pulling on the stem. If you feel resistance, remove the plastic covering and be sure to keep the soil moist. The plant should then be treated as any other seedling.

Propagation from seed is also a relatively easy process.  Be sure to wait until the pods have matured to the point of swelling. Cut the pods from the stem and place them in a brown paper bag. Be sure to store the bag in a dry location.  After about two weeks, shake the bag and carefully remove the dislocated seeds. Place the seeds in a ziplock bag and store them in the back of your refrigerator in a plastic container. After a dormant period of at least three months, the seeds can be planted.

Seedlings need to be in simulated sunshine for at least 14 hours per day. They also need 8 hours of dormancy for good growth. You either need to invest in fluorescent bulbs called gro-lights, which are as close to natural light as anything sold on the market, or substitute these with less expensive bulbs. By using one cool and one warm white fluorescent in combination, you will achieve the same effect.

If given the correct conditions, namely adequate moisture, strong light, and healthy soil, the plants will germinate and grow to maturity with few or any problems. To maintain moisture, seeds should be covered with plastic. I grow my seedlings in seed trays with individual cell packs. After sowing, I cover with a pre-fitted plastic dome. But once the first seedlings sprout, it is important to remove the cover to avoid damping-off disease. This is a fatal fungus disease which only attacks young seedlings, and is caused by inadequate air circulation and non-sterile soil. That is why I advise all those who start seeds indoors to only use sterile, soiless mixes composed of vermiculite, perlite, and sphagnum moss. These mixes can be purchased at any reputable garden center.

Once the seedlings develop their second set of leaves, you can begin supplementing the plants with a diluted solution of fertilizer. Since you want to keep the nitrogen and salt levels low at this stage of growth, I highly recommend staying away from the chemical mixes. Rather, use a seaweed/fish emulsion formula at ?the recommended level. This will help the plants?development and also help ward off disease. You can purchase these organic formulas at most garden centers or through online websites such as Gardens Alive.

Finally, be sure to keep your fluorescent lights no higher than 3?above the seedlings at all times. This is critical to prevent the plants from becoming weak and spindly. As I mentioned earlier, they should be left on 14 hours per day. If fluorescent lighting is not possible, put them in a southwest window and turn them every three days to avoid leaning.

I am attaching a few websites that should prove helpful.  I would also advise you to purchase 揟he New Seed-Starters Handbook?by Nancy Bubel. It has many good ideas and techniques that benefit even experienced gardeners.

http://www.gardenguides.com/TipsandTechniques/starting.htm
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06570.htm
http://echonet.org/shopsite_sc/store/html/SeedStarterHandbook.html

Supplies Needed for Seed Starting
1.   Seed Trays
2.   Seedling cell packs
3.   Peat Pots for Transplant Sensitive Seedlings
4.   Clear Plastic Domes
5.   Soiless Starting Mix Containing Vermiculite, Perlite, and Sphagnum Moss
6.   Heat Mat
7.   48?Lighting System; Single or Double Tier
8.   Nest Trays
9.   Gro-Lux Fluorescent Bulbs
10.   Hand Seeder
11.   Plant Markers; 4?br> 12.   Permanent Ink Markers; Sharpie Fine
13.   Fish Emulsion Fertilizer
14.   Misting Bottle

I hope this information helps. Good luck.

Regards,

Mike

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