Nontoxic Pest Control
No garden is pest-free. Fungal infections, caterpillars, beetles, deer—the list is endless. But you can fight back without risking health or fortune. Often, changing gardening practices prevents problems before they start.
These tips work together as a protective barrier. Many problems can be attacked on multiple fronts—if one fails, try another. Stay vigilant; early action is easiest.
Mechanical Barriers
Block pest access:
- Fences: Low fence (secured at ground or buried) deters dogs/rabbits. Deer need tall fencing—expensive/unsightly. Use individual collars for young, tender plants.
- Row covers: Lightweight fabric covers plants without smothering, allows light. Used commercially for frost protection; also shields from insects, caterpillars, birds, rabbits, squirrels. Best for young transplants; remove as stems harden.
- Cloches: Temporary covers for single plants or rows. Cut bottom off gallon milk jug for single plants; paper cones for small plants; wire hoops + row cover fabric for rows. Danger: heat buildup on sunny days—vent or remove before plants fry.
- Cutworm collars: Cutworms chew stems at ground level. Form 2–3 inch collars from index cards, slip over transplants, push 1 inch into soil.
- Netting: Bird netting protects berries and tree fruit.
- Chemical barriers: Animal scent products (fox urine, dried blood) may deter pests. Effectiveness debated; reapply frequently, especially in rain.
Pick Disease-Resistant Plants
Prevention is key—diseases are hard to control once established.
- Choose disease-resistant varieties. Most critical step. Scan catalogs/websites; ask nursery staff.
- Give plants space. Fungi need moisture. Tight spacing slows drying. Follow spacing recommendations; add extra room in humid areas.
- Keep leaves dry. Avoid overhead watering; water at base. Trellis vines (tomatoes, cucumbers) to keep foliage/fruit off damp soil.
- Remove diseased plants immediately. Trash them—don't compost.
- Rotate crops. Pathogens overwinter in soil under susceptible plants. Move crops yearly (e.g., tomatoes from NE to NW corner). Rotation also improves soil fertility.
- Test and fix soil. Poor pH or nutrition causes problems. County extension tests inexpensively. Add organic matter regularly.
Insect Control
Not all insects are bad—bees pollinate, lady beetles eat aphids. Broad insecticides kill beneficials; avoid when bees are active. Use natural, nontoxic controls.
- Hand-pick larger pests/caterpillars if infestation limited.
- Waste management: Remove/destroy infested plants; don't compost. Clear dead leaves, fallen fruit, debris that harbor pests.
- Nontoxic sprays/traps: Insecticidal soaps effective on many pests, safe for people, pets, beneficials. Beer-filled saucers lure slugs.
Keeping Weeds at Bay
Weeds are inevitable but manageable.
- Use mulch: Suppresses weeds, cools soil, conserves moisture. Organic mulches feed soil as they decompose.
- Control weeds early: Young weeds easier to remove; frequent light weeding beats waiting for takeover. Prevents seed production.
- Safe pre-emergent control: Corn-based products (e.g., Preen) prevent annual weeds. Don't affect established plants. Apply in spring before seeds sprout. Doesn't work on perennial weeds or already-growing annuals.
