Mid-summer is the worst time to move a large woody plant, but sometimes circumstances demand it. Here's how to give your Japanese maple the best chance of survival.
Japanese maples are extremely sensitive to low soil moisture; leaves scorch at the edges and can turn crisp within ten days. Shorten the longest limbs by half to reduce water demand and balance the reduced root system.
Terminal buds produce hormones that direct root growth and lower twig development. Leave shorter limbs unpruned; cut long limbs back to an existing smaller branch. This preserves hormonal signals while reducing leaf area.
Use a spading fork to loosen soil several feet from the trunk and locate as many roots as possible. Firmly tug to pull long, attached roots from the soil. Spray roots with water as you work and cover them with plastic sheeting if transport is needed.
Prepare the new planting hole beforehand. Match hole dimensions to the root system and backfill with well-pulverized native soil. Mulch with pine straw or wood chips to keep soil cool during recovery.
Do not fertilize a newly moved tree; it gets nutrients from surrounding soil. Water regularly to keep soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize next year only if the tree survives.
Garden "rules" aren't absolute. In emergencies, minimize shock and proceed—many times you'll be surprised at the plant's resilience.
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